Hoping to avoid some of the crowds, I arrived in the Alfama neighborhood in the early morning. Chairs at open air cafes were still stacked. Local grocery shops were just opening their doors and setting up sidewalk displays along cobblestone streets, narrow and steep in places.
The Alfama is the oldest neighborhood in Lisbon. Since its initial settlement, the neighborhood has changed hands several times. The Romans, Visigoths, and Moors all called Lisbon home at one point. In modern times, the Alfama is primarily characterized as a neighborhood of working class fishermen.
One of the highlights of the Alfama is the Se Cathedral de Lisboa. Originally the site of a mosque, a cathedral was built in its place after the Moors were conquered by Portuguese King Alfonso I in the 12th century.
By starting from the Se Cathedral and walking downwards, you can avoid huffing and puffing up the more steeply inclined sections. Vendors line up along the Cruzes da Se, leading up to the Cathedral, poised and ready to sell passers-by postcards, bracelets, and other souvenirs. And like in most European cities, keep an eye out for motorbikes when crossing streets!
Across the street from the Se Cathedral is the Church of Saint Anthony. Born in Lisbon, Saint Anthony is the Patron Saint of Lost Things. You may be familiar with the rhyme:
Tony Tony Turn Around
What was lost must be found
While in Lisbon, I heard several stories involving the Saint’s abilities. In addition to praying for the return of lost items, you can also pray to Saint Anthony for a romantic partner. Or, if you do not like your current partner, you can pray for a better partner! A statue of the Saint can be found outside of the Church of Saint Anthony holding a book. If you toss a coin and it lands on the book, it is said that your request will be granted.
The guidebook I picked up for Lisbon described the streets of the Alfama as pleasantly winding. If you know where you are going or you aren’t terribly concerned with time, the streets of the Alfama are quite picturesque. But, if you get turned about easily, it feels more like a labyrinth of never ending side streets.
Tram 28 is a great option for getting up to the Alfama.
After working my way down from the Alfama, I headed down to the Belem neighborhood. Along the river side, the Age of Discovery monument and Belem Tower are within walking distance of each other.
The Age of Discovery (Padrão dos Descobrimentos) monument honors Henry the Navigator and other key Portuguese players from the 15th and 16th centuries. While not the original monument, the one currently standing was constructed in 1960. Its inauguration marked the 500th year anniversary of Henry the Navigator’s death.
I was very excited to see the monument after reading about the design. The monument, sitting on the banks of the Tagus River, was designed like the prow of a ship. At the front is Henry the Navigator. He holds in his hands a ship, cradled like he is about to launch it forth towards the Atlantic and other great discoveries. Behind him are a procession of people who made the age of discovery for Portugal possible; Saints, explorers, like Vasco de Gama and Ferdinand Magellan, map makers, nobility, and clergy.
Unfortunately, when I went to visit the monument, it was being cleaned, restored, and consequently obscured by scaffolding. I could only just make out Henry and his ship.
The square surrounding the monument is decorated with a tiled compass rose. A gift to Portugal from the Republic of South Africa, the center of the compass rose is a world map, illustrating Portuguese ships and historic dates.
About a 15 minute walk away from the Age of Discovery is the Belem Tower, also situated on the bank of the Tagus River. From the Tower, you have a view of the river and the Atlantic Ocean. Built in the early 1500s by Manuel I, the Tower is now a UNESCO heritage site. The Tower is defined by a medieval style tower (Donjon) and terraces around the exterior. Its original purpose was to protect Lisbon from threats coming in by way of the Atlantic Ocean. The Old Tower, on the opposite bank of the river, was part of the defensive strategy for Lisbon. Together, the Belem and Old Towers could volley shots when an adversary sailed in.
After all that walking around, it may be useful to note that there are restroom facilities near the Belem Tower. If you are standing in front of the Tower, they are just to the right. But, be prepared to pay! When I was there, a line was formed outside the ladies’ room (typical) and a woman was at the front taking payment and passing out tickets. If I recall correctly, it was 50 cents (in Euros), AND I got a souvenir ticket stub! 😉
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