Fez has a great deal to offer a first time visitor; almost a sensory-overload of things to see and do. So, if you are short on time, I would recommend these medina highlights, all located within the old medina of Fez.
Tanneries
If you walk in the direction of the tanneries, you’ll smell them before you see any signs. At the entrance to the tannery, one of the associates will likely offer you a sprig of mint, to help mask the powerful aroma. But don’t worry, even after crushing the mint and rubbing the oils under your nose, you will still be able to smell the signature tannery perfume.
Admittedly, I just found the smell to be unpleasant, not overpowering. It wasn’t until I was up on one of the terraces overlooking the vats that I was hit with a gust of wind, seemingly directly from the vats themselves. Only then did I feel compelled to step back and apply mint.
The upper viewing terraces of the Tannery weren’t as aromatic as the lower levels. However, even with the elevation, the smell coming from the vats was still incredibly strong. An associate of the tannery co-op went through the process that is performed on the hides to produce the leather products. Centuries old techniques are still used to strip and dye animal hides. The initial vat, which appears to be a white pool, is where the hides are soaked in a mixture of bird droppings and urine. The acidic mixture helps to strip the hair, etc from the hide, cleaning the surface. After being striped and cleaned, the hide is then taken to another vat to be dyed. The sprawling array of colorful vats gives the tanneries a real sense of beauty, and should definitely be visited.
Carpet Shops
If leather is not your thing, try one of the many carpet shops in the medina. After receiving an orientation on the styles and patterns, rolls and rolls of carpets were unfurled at my feet. Definitely do your research before going out and buying a carpet though. Pricing is dependent on the quality and detail of a carpet, so knowing what you are looking at and being able to determine the quality of the carpet will go a long way. Also keep in mind that if you go into a shop to look at the carpets, whomever is showing you carpets will be determined to sell you a carpet, pulling out varying sizes and levels of intricate designs in order to suit a wide range of budgets.
Medersa Bou Inania
With a few exceptions, non-Muslims are not allowed to enter mosques in Morocco. Medersa Bou Inania is one of these exceptions, and a beautiful example of Marinid-style architecture. Constructed in the mid-1300s by Marinid sultan, Bou Inan, the medersa is distinguished by delicate plaster work, cedar wood screen carvings, inlaid tile decorations, and a green tiled rooftop.
The Blue Gate – Bab Boujloud
The widely recognizable “Blue Gate” was built by the French during their protectorate occupation in 1913. The original 12th century city walls and doors are still visible on either side of the gate. Walking towards the gate, and in to the old medina, the Fassi tile along the gate is blue. However, on the opposite side of the gate, if you are walking out of the medina, the tile is green. A replication of this gate can also be found at Disney’s Epcot in Orlando, FL.
Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts
A museum of wooden arts, it is appropriately located in the capenter’s square, surrounded by wood carvers and artists. Originally used as a boarding house and storage for caravans, the building was restored and opened as a museum in 1998. The rooftop and cafe also offers panoramic views of the surrounding medina. Pictures are allowed in the main courtyard area and rooftop, but not of the rooms beyond. Among the levels of rooms, artifacts like religious texts, swords, and wood and metal tools are thoughtfully arranged.
Zaouia Moulay Idriss II
While non-Muslims are not permitted to enter, there is still a great view from the doorway. Shrine to the former Moroccan ruler Moulay Idriss II, the zaouia is a popular pilgrimage spot.
