Reykjavik, Iceland: Flight & City Center

Reykjavik

 

Iceland holds a special place in my heart, because it was the first international trip I planned completely on my own. No travel agent, no tour guide.

I remember sitting in the airport terminal, waiting for the IcelandAir flight to board, ticking through my trip confirmation emails. I was traveling to Iceland in December, so I brought my big puffy coat as a carry-on item. But when the flight crew arrived at the gate, dressed in their winter wear, my heart dropped. The female flight attendants wore fur trimmed hats and short, but thick capes. If that was what the flight attendants were wearing, how cold was it going to be in Iceland? I remember looking down at my puffy coat, which now seemed insufficient for where I was going, wondering what I got myself in to. I started to wonder if I was truly prepared for this trip. But, I’d made it this far; No turning back now!

The flight into Keflavik was smooth, but the lingering doubt  returned, two fold, as we prepared for landing. As I looked out the window, I could see nothing but snow. It was streaming past the window in thick waves. And I wondered if we were coming down in a blizzard. The closer we got to the ground, the thicker the snow screen became. I kept thinking there was no way we could land in this, we can’t even see the ground. But, sure enough, I felt the wheels of the plane connect with the runway and we glided to the terminal.

Disembarking, we had to take a bus from our current terminal to the arrivals terminal. Watching the snow swirl in the intense wind, I quickly wrapped my scarf around my neck as many times as it would go, and zipped up my coat. As anxious as I was, it could not have been anything compared to the young guys beside me, wearing shorts and t-shirts. It was a mad dash out to the bus, as we attempted to minimize our time outside,the biting chill finding every inch of exposed skin. The doors stayed open until the bus was packed with passengers. We collectively shivered, desperately waiting for the doors to close.

That was my first introduction to Iceland! Fortunately, once I arrived at my hotel, I was able to pull more clothes out of my bag and layer up. And I definitely layered up! I had so many pairs of socks on my feet, I had to loosen the laces on my shoes and cram my feet in.

Eager to explore, I hit the snowy streets in my three layers and winter coat. Initially, I thought it would be too much. That maybe my memory had over-exaggerated the cold. But, as I wandered up and down the streets of Reykjavik, I was very pleased to find it was just the right amount.

While you are there in Reykjavik, I’d highly recommend trying some of the Icelandic cuisine! I stopped at a small cafe called Cafe Loki to sample some Icelandic foods: homemade bread, herring, and smoked trout.

Within a relatively short walking distance, I was able to see quite a bit.

Hallgrímskirkja Church – Be sure to stop by at night, when it is all lit up. It is beautiful!

Reykjavik

Old Harbor docks – Charming wooden docks, colorful shops converted from fishing stores, and teethered fishing boats. Also, a great place to stop by for lobster soup.

Reykjavik Parliament House and city square, Austurvöllur – The Parliament House, with the date of its construction along the top of the building, 1881, still houses the Icelandic parliament. The park immediately across the street from parliament is a popular meeting point, due to its central location and array of cafes nearby. The statue of Jon Sigurosson, Iceland’s Independence Movement leader, also stands in the park.

Another lovely feature of the city is the building architecture: corrugated metal buildings, some colorfully painted; My walking guide postulated that the corrugated metal roofs and siding on houses took off due to a lack of trees in Iceland. The metal was a much cheaper building material than imported lumber.

Reykjavik

Iceland: Best Enjoyed Chilled

Reykjavik Iceland

Why should you brave the cold and visit Iceland in the winter?

For those of you who hate cold weather, I’m sure the very thought of traveling to a cold destination in the winter is unthinkable. But Iceland in the winter, especially close to the Christmas season, offers enthralling and delightful activities, best enjoyed in cold and snowy conditions.

Reykjavik Iceland

Northern Lights

The Northern Light sightings are more plentiful in the winter months. The cold nights, when the conditions are clear and the night is long, increases the likelihood for success on your lights hunt. I remember standing in the middle of a remote, snow covered road in December, feeling like my toes would go numb at any moment. The coldest I could ever recall being, actually. But, overhead, dancing across the sky were the elusive blues and greens of the Northern Lights. For a time, I forgot about the cold, and stared mesmerized by the ebbs and re-appearances of the fluid rows.

Snowy Wonderland

The natural wonders of Iceland are also beautifully striking in the winter. The waterfalls ice over, creating shimmering, frozen waterslides for the water still liquid enough to flow. The geysers erupt like clockwork, spraying the sidewalks with mist, quickly turning to ice. Or, set out for some glacier hiking, armed with crampons and ice picks. While in a lot of places, you can still hike in warmer months, the cold weather lets you marvel at the ice walls and snow packed terrain.

Geyser Iceland

Waterfall Iceland

Additionally, Iceland is a very environmentally conscience place. Iceland’s power infrastructures are able to tap in to geothermal energy harnessed from the plentiful hot springs. Driving outside of Reykjavik, you can see lines of zig zagging pipes, transporting the water. As you might expect, the water comes out of the ground at incredibly hot temperatures. So, the pipes transporting the water zig and zag at sharp angles, in order to drop the temperature before it reaches the energy plants. What that translates into is cleaner heating and electricity. And even though Iceland sees as little as four hours of sunlight a day in the winter, the houses and streets are well illuminated. With the snow covered walkways and houses, the lights shine out brightly, like a winter wonderland. In the summer, with roughly 21 hours of light at summer’s peak, the warm glow of light isn’t as spectacular.

Yule Lads

In December, the Christmas markets are in full swing, as are the tales of the Yule Lads. If you are interested in folklore, Iceland’s Yule Lads are a special treat. Iceland is full of tales of trolls living in caves and river spirits, but the Yule Lads only seem to be mentioned closer to Christmas. In the US, I grew up with the stories of Santa Claus and his elf helpers. But in Iceland, the 13 Yule Lads take on the role of Santa-like elves; though they are far from what you would consider helpful. Each of the lads has a specific mischievous tendency, like one who would hide in the rafters of houses and steal sausages. They are each devoted a day within the 13 days leading up to Christmas. So, on their designated day, along with their mischievous behavior, they would also leave gifts in the shoes of the children of the town. If the child was good, sweets would be left. But, if the child misbehaved, the child would find a rotten potato in his or her shoe the next morning.

Winter Deals

In addition to things to do around lceland, travel deals for winter are much more plentiful than for summer months. Flight prices drop a bit, and IcelandAir tends to run a lot of specials around this time.

During my time in Reykjavik, I met a nice Swedish couple also on vacation. As the conversation turned to the weather, I recall telling them about the many layers I piled on to go outside. Coming from a colder climate, they were quite amused by my newfound appreciation for layering. And they imparted a saying to me, which I will pass on to you. “There is no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothes.”