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Essaouira, Morocco: Beachfront and Gnaoua Music

September 26, 2017September 26, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Essaouira, Morocco

The port town of Essaouira, originally Mogador, is well worth a visit, if only to get a break from the big cities and persistent vendors. One of the main roads towards the center of town travels along the coastline and beachfront. Rolling aqua blue waves crash against the white, sandy beach and camels line up a few yards from the surf, ready to take tourists for a ride. That’s right, camels! I heard a few locals refer to them as “city camels” because they’ve never been to the desert.

Beach front restaurants also dot the boardwalk, placing chairs and colorful umbrellas out to entice passersby with fresh fish of the day.

While you can not drive in to the city center, the medina, you can drive alongside it to get to the old fort and fish market. Some Game of Thrones fans will recognize parts of the fort, Borj El Barmil, from various scenes in the series.

If you are willing to wake up a little early, check out the fish market! It’s hard to describe the smell of the market, some combination of rotting vegetation and avian droppings may be the closest, but the activity and sights are wondrous. Fisherman drift in with their fresh catch of the day, dividing out the fish spoken for, restaurants and families, from the fish for purchase on ice. The old, wooden fishing boats, a vibrant blue, pop against the grey backdrop.

Of course, if you don’t want the hassle of haggling over price and cooking your own fish, there are stalls within the medina walls, loaded with fresh fish you can pick from and they will cook it for you!

The assortment of items for sale was a little different than the other medinas I visited; here I saw a ton of colorful, wool knit caps and lots of artisan galleries. I also bought my very first kaftan! Cities like Marrakesh will have a larger selection of kaftans and sometimes lower prices, but I enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere of Essaouira; I was able to look at items on display without someone appearing from nowhere and insisting that I buy it right there, best price in the medina, etc etc.

In addition, Essaouira is known for its Gnaoua (or Gnawa) music and the Gnaoua Music Festival held there each year. Brought to Morocco by enslaved West Africans, the Gnaoua music is made up of a combination of guembri (3-stringed sort of bass), hand claps, cymbal-like castanets, and drums. The music is believed to have healing powers; it was originally used in ceremonies to heal a sick person. Now, the music is predominantly for entertainment, and is even mixed with other musical styles to create new sounds.

I also had my most interesting, and at the time, alarming, interactions in Essaouira walking back to my hotel after dinner one evening. I was accompanied by two other ladies, and we were headed to a Mediterranean themed restaurant two blocks from the hotel. It was still early in the evening, and quite light outside. But that did not stop one of the local fellas from walking with us up the street. He was saying something to us, I have no idea what; But I’m sure I could guess, as he continued a sort of running commentary. At some point further up the street our running commentator must have caught sight of a friend, calling out to him and together they merged, continuing the commentary. Thankfully, we were steps away from the restaurant, and were able to escape our trailing “admirers.” Mind you, we were all very conservatively dressed; no snug fitting clothes, tunic style shirts that covered our backside, legs and arms covered, and scarves wrapped around our necks. Trust me, there was nothing to see!

On our way back to the hotel after dinner, we barely made it past the restaurant’s threshold before a man across the street spotted us and made a beeline in our direction. We quickened our pace and he followed behind us, slurring his words and singing jubilantly. Fortunately, once we made it to the end of the block, he trailed off. While I now realize he was probably just a harmless, drunken man, serenading anyone within earshot, it didn’t feel like that in the moment. After all, what could make you feel safer than a man following you down the street, shouting to you in a foreign tongue? It was kind of surprising as well; I’ve heard about women being followed by local men in the cities, but not so much in smaller towns like Essaouira.

Mergouza, Morocco: Sahara Camping in Morocco

July 9, 2017July 31, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Mergouza, Morocco

In what I can only imagine is a well-rehearsed speech addressing the most frequent question, the Sahara camp camel guides insisted to the would-be riders that their camels did not spit. Further elaborating, they said their camels, the one-hump dromedary, are very friendly. “Only the two hump camels are aggressive,” they continued. I’m fairly certain all camels spit… So, whether or not this is true, I could not say, but it was amusing.

I was instructed to mount my camel’s saddle, while he was still laying down, and “hold on tight!” The last part made me a bit nervous; put-your-phone-down tight or death-grip tight? As I gripped the handlebar of the saddle, the camel stood up; front feet extending, then straightening, followed by the back end. I was abruptly and swiftly shifted backwards, then surprisingly righted. Assembled and mounted, we lumbered up along the dunes, marching single file. I found that riding a camel was not really the same as riding a horse, as I found myself measurably swaying from side to side. Disembarking from my camel, who I decided to nickname “Freddy”, was about the same as embarking, except this time the surprise was in suddenly shifting forward and then a rapid loss of altitude.

The camels assigned to my small group were very well socialized and reminded me a lot of big dogs. After disembarking, I went to rub my camel’s head, and to my surprise, he pressed his face into my hand. Freddy’s fur, well adapted to the sandy, desert environment, was very coarse. Like the sand barricades I passed on the ride in, Freddy’s built in sand defense blocks the grainy sand. When I patted Freddy’s head and shifted to leave, he moved his face into my hand again, trying to encourage me to keep petting him. Just like a big dog who does not want you to stop scratching his ears! It was really cute.

When we arrived at our Sahara camp at dusk, the group was treated to lively, traditional Berber music around the camp fire. The night sky was a bit overcast, so there was not much opportunity for star gazing. And, there were mosquitoes abuzz everywhere. The smoky camp fire helped dispel some of the mosquitoes, but I still slapped on some extra repellent before turning in for the night.

Ten tents encircled the camp fire pit, and each tent, accommodating up to three people, had its own private bath and shower. To my dismay, I soon discovered I was sharing my shower with a local reptilian inhabitant. Just below the grate of the shower drain, I could see a tan body with black, red, and green patterns. Unwilling to find out whether or not it was poisonous, venomous, or inclined to bite visitors, I went out to find someone to assist. Two camp attendants returned with me to investigate, and after an extended conversation in Arabic, one attendant grabbed some tissues while the other stepped back, like “well, you’ve got this,” and made his way to the exit. I was not sure if he was thinking that I made a big deal out of nothing or if he was just trying to get out of the way.. But after the other attendant managed to wrangle whatever it was with his tissues, it occurred to me they were just as apprehensive as I was. The remaining attendant removed a rather hefty looking toad, and, held at arm’s length, rushed out of the tent. I found out later that it was a Berber toad. Some can be poisonous, but at least it was not a snake. I would not have been able to sleep if I knew a snake called my shower home.

After the toad was relocated, I decided to get the flashlight and check the corners of the tent, just in case. It was then that one of my tent mates said, “We should check under the beds too.” My heart dropped. Every one was looking at me, the idiot holding the only flashlight. So I sighed, mentally steeling myself, and moved towards the nearest bed. I’m not sure if I was more afraid of finding something under the bed, or thinking I had seen something, screaming, running out of the tent, and causing camp-wide hysteria… But luck was on my side, and no other creatures were discovered.

Mergouza, Morocco: Offroading through the Sahara

July 9, 2017July 9, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Mergouza, Morocco

The opportunity to camp in the Sahara Desert was one of my top reasons for traveling to Morocco. The silver screen’s depiction of a seemingly endless expanse of sunburnt sand dunes captured my imagination, and I would not be content until I experienced it myself. And, as many like-minded travelers have come before me, there are several excursion companies to choose from; but the trip itself is about the same. Camels across the dunes and a night in a tent under the stars, free from the light pollution of city lights.

Most of the Sahara excursions will pick you up from a pre-determined location and shuttle you out to the camps. By early afternoon, a small convoy of 4×4 vehicles was dispatched to my hotel in Erfoud to collect the group for the camp out.

As we made our way towards the desert and our camp, I noticed quite a few “sand barricades” along the roadside. At first, I thought they were just random patches of dense plants. Then I realized they had purposefully been planted. These low lying barricades, comprised of small bushes and grasses, are planted in tidy rows, with the primary purpose of helping control the drifting of sand, which contributes to land erosion and sand storms. Little piles of sand were visible at the base of these plant barricades, a testament to their usefulness.

Even with the sand barricades, smaller sand dunes will shift and move with the winds, making them poor landmarks for navigation.

I was hoping to talk my driver into letting me drive through the desert for a short time, but once we hit the desert and went off road, I knew there was no chance. Driving along the tracks of deep sand felt a lot like driving in deep snow; our vehicle drifted about, as the sand rolled beneath the tires. As if the car was a glass, and the passengers the water, we sloshed about the interior. Driving from shallow sands into the deeper pockets of sand, you could feel the downgrade in traction, and the vehicle would drift a bit from side to side, and you continue to slosh accordingly.

My desert guide pointed out that the deep sand “valleys” we crossed were the product of dried up riverbeds that had filled up with drifting sand. Riverbeds are not exactly the first thing to come to mind when I think of the Sahara! At first glance, the riverbeds are nothing more distinguishable than peaks and valleys of sand. But on closer inspection, you can see where the rain water has carved a path through the sands. Where does all that water come from you say? When it rains in the mountains, the water runs down to the flat desert lands, filling up the previously dried up river. Heavy amounts of rain can create dangerous flash flood situations very quickly.

Roughly 40 minutes more of off-roading through the desert, and we arrived at the base of the Erg Chebbi sand dune, one of two large dunes in Morocco. From our drop off point, there was a short walk to the camels and camel guides. All the camels in the group were dromedary camels, the noted characteristic being the single-hump, instead of the two humps of the Bactrain camels. Saddled, with colorful blankets draped underneath, and lined up in several rows, the camels lounged in the sand.

Continued: Camping in the Sahara

Fez, Morocco: 5 Must See Medina Highlights

June 22, 2017June 22, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Fez, Morocco

Fez has a great deal to offer a first time visitor; almost a sensory-overload of things to see and do. So, if you are short on time, I would recommend these medina highlights, all located within the old medina of Fez.

Tanneries

If you walk in the direction of the tanneries, you’ll smell them before you see any signs. At the entrance to the tannery, one of the associates will likely offer you a sprig of mint, to help mask the powerful aroma. But don’t worry, even after crushing the mint and rubbing the oils under your nose, you will still be able to smell the signature tannery perfume.

Admittedly, I just found the smell to be unpleasant, not overpowering. It wasn’t until I was up on one of the terraces overlooking the vats that I was hit with a gust of wind, seemingly directly from the vats themselves. Only then did I feel compelled to step back and apply mint.

The upper viewing terraces of the Tannery weren’t as aromatic as the lower levels. However, even with the elevation, the smell coming from the vats was still incredibly strong. An associate of the tannery co-op went through the process that is performed on the hides to produce the leather products. Centuries old techniques are still used to strip and dye animal hides. The initial vat, which appears to be a white pool, is where the hides are soaked in a mixture of bird droppings and urine. The acidic mixture helps to strip the hair, etc from the hide, cleaning the surface. After being striped and cleaned, the hide is then taken to another vat to be dyed. The sprawling array of colorful vats gives the tanneries a real sense of beauty, and should definitely be visited.

Carpet Shops

If leather is not your thing, try one of the many carpet shops in the medina. After receiving an orientation on the styles and patterns, rolls and rolls of carpets were unfurled at my feet. Definitely do your research before going out and buying a carpet though. Pricing is dependent on the quality and detail of a carpet, so knowing what you are looking at and being able to determine the quality of the carpet will go a long way. Also keep in mind that if you go into a shop to look at the carpets, whomever is showing you carpets will be determined to sell you a carpet, pulling out varying sizes and levels of intricate designs in order to suit a wide range of budgets.

Medersa Bou Inania

With a few exceptions, non-Muslims are not allowed to enter mosques in Morocco. Medersa Bou Inania is one of these exceptions, and a beautiful example of Marinid-style architecture. Constructed in the mid-1300s by Marinid sultan, Bou Inan, the medersa is distinguished by delicate plaster work, cedar wood screen carvings, inlaid tile decorations, and a green tiled rooftop.

The Blue Gate – Bab Boujloud

The widely recognizable “Blue Gate” was built by the French during their protectorate occupation in 1913. The original 12th century city walls and doors are still visible on either side of the gate. Walking towards the gate, and in to the old medina, the Fassi tile along the gate is blue. However, on the opposite side of the gate, if you are walking out of the medina, the tile is green. A replication of this gate can also be found at Disney’s Epcot in Orlando, FL.

Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts

A museum of wooden arts, it is appropriately located in the capenter’s square, surrounded by wood carvers and artists. Originally used as a boarding house and storage for caravans, the building was restored and opened as a museum in 1998. The rooftop and cafe also offers panoramic views of the surrounding medina. Pictures are allowed in the main courtyard area and rooftop, but not of the rooms beyond. Among the levels of rooms, artifacts like religious texts, swords, and wood and metal tools are thoughtfully arranged.

Zaouia Moulay Idriss II

While non-Muslims are not permitted to enter, there is still a great view from the doorway. Shrine to the former Moroccan ruler Moulay Idriss II, the zaouia is a popular pilgrimage spot.

Fez, Morocco: Delving into the Labyrinths of the Fez Medina

June 16, 2017June 16, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Fez, Morocco

Fez, the original capital of Morocco prior to the French moving it to Rabat, is a bustling city, full of history and artisanal crafts. And no trip to Fez would be complete without wandering through the thousands of alleyways that make up the medina.

The Fez medina was built and expanded in the shape of a concave. So typically, if you are walking and the street slopes downward, you are walking into the medina. And if the slope is slanting upwards, you are walking out. However, there is always an exception! And in this case, if you are walking down towards the river, Oued Bou Khrareb, there are exits leading out of the medina along the riverside, which slope downwards.

During my first venture into the medina, I took a guided tour. I really wanted to focus on experiencing the life and character of the marketplaces, without worrying about how to navigate the 9,000+ alleyways that make the Fez medina famous. Tour groups are never hard to spot in the medina, and not more than 5 minutes into the tour, a local man caught sight of us and decided to join our group; he was an older gentleman and began buzzing around the front of the group. He insisted he was helping us by keeping the street ahead of us clean, picking up bits of debris as he went along; of course, with the idea in mind that we should tip him for his services. My medina guide told him in Arabic that we did not need assistance, but the older man persisted, continuing a few steps ahead, as if leading the group through the alleys. From the other direction, a father and his young son were walking towards us, backpack in hand, presumeably towards school. The father looked at our predicament with a look of exasperation. Moving towards another street nearby, I thought he was planning to take another route in order to avoid the self-appointed, street sweeping man. To my surprise, he escorted his son to a nearby doorway, then proceeded to insist the street sweeping man leave immediately. And just like that, the nuisance was gone.

At the onset of the tour, it was fairly quiet, and vendors were only starting to set up or open up their stalls. As the day went on, the medina became much more lively. Crowds of people started to fill the alleyways. There were beef sides hanging from hooks, colorful tins filled to the brim with equally colorful spices, handmade copper pots stacked in rows along a stone wall, a sea of fabrics neatly piled to the ceiling, bees buzzing around blocks of nuget. Several times someone would shout “Balek, balek!” as a donkey or cart navigated through the center of narrow alleyways. Some streets were so narrow, I found myself pressed into someone’s doorway, in order to give way to a cart.

My guide also told me that turning your back to a stall is considered bad luck. So, as you are navigating your way through the multitude of streets, avoid stopping directly in front of a stall and turning your back to it. With so many sights to see, it is easy to do, especially when attempting to clear a path for a cart.

While prepping for this trip, I read about the local people policing members of their community, but it was interesting to see firsthand. In addition to the street sweeper from earlier, I also saw several young children running amok in the marketplace. School must have let out for lunch and a group of elementary-aged boys were darting through the crowds of people, and shouting to each other. Then, a hand would reach out and move the boys to the side or hold them in place, telling them not to be disruptive. A stark contrast from home, where people just watch disruptive behavior and wonder, silently, where the child’s parents are.

Despite being a large city, the old medina has a close-knit community feel. I noticed this most strongly when I observed the residents and shopkeepers looking after children as they walked to school, as well as each other. At times, it was a little difficult to see, with various vendors and street merchants trying to sell trinkets and souvenirs. Like in Rabat, I employed a firm, but polite “No, thank you” when dealing with aggressive vendors and kept moving. During my two week trip, the super-aggressive vendors were not commonplace. Most of the Moroccans I met were very pleasant, and warmly welcomed me to their beautiful country.

What to Expect on a RAM, Electronics Free Flight

May 26, 2017May 31, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment General Tips, Morocco

If you are like me, and find yourself booked on a flight that is now banned from allowing passengers to carry non-phone electronics on board, you are probably thinking “Great, 7 hours of staring at the reclined seat 5 inches in front of my face…” or something along those lines.

My initial thought was to just cancel the ticket and book the flight on an unbarred airline. And, based on the memo the airline sent out, it seems many people had the exact same idea. But, as the memo pointed out, that would mean incurring a flight change/cancellation fee. So, I prepared for an electronics free flight.

US guidance sent out to affected airlines stated that any electronic device larger than a cell phone would not be allowed in the cabin. However, as of the date of this article (April 2017), Royal Air Maroc does not allow any electronics in the cabin of a flight traveling to the US, unless it is a cell phone or medical device.

Resigned to my electronics free flight, and concerned about how my electronic devices would fare in my luggage, I opted to leave most of my devices at home. So, on my trip back to the US, the only things I had to check in my bag were my fitness tracker, outlet adapter, and phone charger.

Flying out of Casablanca to the US, I was asked at check in if I had any electronics in my carry-on bag. Even my headphones had to be checked. I was convinced they wouldn’t be a problem. Unclear of what would be deemed an “electronic”, I brought a cheap pair of headphones, but apparently they were not small enough. Only the ear bud headphones were allowed to be carried onboard.

At the gate, there was a station for additional checks of carry-on luggage. This is not unusual, as flights to the US typically require extra screening for liquids, etc. However, it did get a little interesting, as passengers coming in on connecting flights also had to be checked for electronics. And it seemed that not all passengers got the memo that electronics would not be allowed in the cabin. While waiting in line to board the plane, a man behind me was on his cellphone complaining about how they took his laptop and made him check it to his destination. Surprise! :-\

Those of us prepared for the electronics free flight displayed our levels of creativeness, while settling in to our seats, about how we would spend the next several hours; From carrying on a physical book (business at airport bookstores must be booming) to browsing through pre-loaded books/apps/music on one’s phone.

For those who had to surrender headphones, there is still the option of getting the free headphones passed out by flight attendants. They are not great, but they are better than nothing.

To my surprise, the airline headphones were collected 30 minutes prior to landing; so wrap up your viewings before then!

Suggestions for traveling with electronics:

If it is important to you, consider leaving it at home. Electronics in luggage are not guaranteed to arrive undamaged or at all. After all, luggage gets lost, why not electronics?
If you have to travel with electronics, you may want to look into luggage insurance, and ensure it includes a replacement clause for bag contents
If it plugs into an outlet or runs on a chargeable battery, it will probably be considered an electronic and potentially liable for checking in bag

*Requirement only applies to flights coming to the US, not departing.

Volubilis, Morocco: The Mosaics of Volubilis

May 24, 2017May 25, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Morocco, Volubilis

Volubilis is an easy stop on the road from Rabat to Fez, passing through the town of Meknes, and a short distance from Moulay Idriss.

Descending the stone stairs into the archaeological complex, the UNESCO seal is affixed on the left-hand wall at Volubilis.

The Roman city, Volubilis, takes the name of a flower, the morning glory, which you can find all around the ruins.

Be sure to pack a hat, as there is not a lot of shade once you venture past the museum.

One of the major draws of Volubilis is the impressively preserved mosaic tile work. Local guides at the site carry bottles of water, in order to show the colors of the tile, which are more pronounced when wet. The mosaics depict scenes from daily life, as well as mythology. One house has a mosaic of an acrobat riding a horse backwards and a scene of a man fishing. In other houses, the tile illustrates scenes from mythology, like Hercules and his 12 labors. A prominent section of mosaic, featuring Medusa, is included in the 12 labors mosaic. The tile can be found in the homes of wealthy residents, and appears to be a direct correlation to the importance of the person who owned the house.

One of the houses contains a private bathhouse with mosaics decorating the cold, temperate, and hot water rooms. This house is referred to as the House of Orpheus because of the circular mosaic of Orpheus, surrounded by animals, playing a musical instrument.

Inside one of the preserved buildings is an oil press.

Typical of Roman construction, there is an aqueduct for the city, which supplies water for the public water fountain. The fountains were also used for laundry and horse drinking water.

The Triumphal gate is situated along the eastern end of the city. As you walk the main road into and through the city, look closely at the stone road. You will see grooves in the worn down cobblestones, from the chariot wheels on the road.

While I was exploring the ruins, a very persistent cameraman was running among the crowd and taking candid pictures of everyone he saw. I would turn a corner, and there he was; camera in my face. I imagine this is what it feels like to be followed by paparazzi. Needless to say, I was not a fan. I thought the self-proclaimed photo-documenter was just being creepy. But, I later found out that this is some sort of business, and the pictures are printed out and offered for sale.

If I knew what his true purpose was, I may have tried turning the tables and taking pictures of him. You know, waiting around corners to point my camera phone in his face. *snap* *snap* 😀

Returning to the museum, located at the entrance to the ruins, two levels of excavated artifacts are displayed. In addition to the artifacts of everyday life in Volubilis, the museum also houses original column segments and bronze statues.

There are restrooms at the museum as well, but be prepared to tip a dirham or two.

Rabat, Morocco: Highlights of Rabat

May 14, 2017June 8, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Morocco, Rabat Chellah ruins, Hand of Fatima, Hassan Tower, Kasbah des Oudayas, Mohammed V Mausoleum, Rabat, white and blue walls

Most of the sights in Rabat are pretty easy to get to by taxi, tram, or walking.

Chellah, an old Roman outpost, is perched on the hillside, just above the river, Bou Regreg. The ruins are mostly made up of battered foundations and column remnants. However, there is plenty of signage indicating where buildings once stood, like the grain store and public baths. After the Romans left, the city was maintained and improved by the Merenid dynasty, installing the decorative entrance gate and ramparts.

In addition to the ruins, you may notice quite a few storks perched along the walls. Just make sure you aren’t standing directly underneath one, else you risk leaving with a bird surprise on your clothes or worse, in your hair.

Just after the sanctuary area there is a pool with eels, which supposedly possess magical abilities. I read that people will throw food to the eels in exchange for wishes, but I’m not sure you are actually supposed to throw anything into the pool. While I was walking by, a man threw something into the pool, and a grounds keeper quickly got into a heated discussion about whatever it was the first man threw in. So, my suggestion would be to look and not throw anything!

On your way back up from the ruins, you’ll pass along the gardens, with palm trees and assorted flora. If you look closely, you will even see a tree, which looks like a dragon!

The Kasbah des Oudayas, just outside the old medina, in the northeast corner, is the old Fort for the city of Rabat. Wandering through the streets, I admired the white and indigo painted walls and doors. My guide informed me that old superstitions lived on in the old city, and that the indigo color is believed to keep bad luck away. The hand of Fatima, a protection symbol, is also used as an ornamental doorknocker of many houses.

Not too far within the winding alleyways of the Kasbah, my guide made a stop at a local bread bakery. The bakery’s services extend beyond just providing baked goods for sale. They also bake bread people in the community bring to them. As many local people in the Kasbah do not have ovens in their houses, they send their bread to bakeries. Sorted by family, the bread is baked in wood fire ovens. Someone from the family would then stop by later in the day to collect the bread. I was pretty surprised to hear that the going rate for the circular loaves of bread is only 2 DH ($0.20 US) a piece.

Leaving the Kasbah, my next stop was the Mohammed V Masoleum and the Hassan Tower.

In the 12th century, construction began on the Hassan Tower and mosque. The ruling leader at the time, Yaqoub al Mansour, planned for the mosque to be the most magnificent in the Muslim world, but construction was abandoned after his death. The structure you see today is what survived the devastating Lisbon earthquake of 1755.

In most other locations, you should resist the urge to take pictures of military and police personnel stationed outside government buildings. But, at the Mohammed V Mausoleum, you can take pictures of the guards at the building entrances and mounted on horseback around the walled entrances.

The Mausoleum is the burial place of King Mohammed V, along with sons, King Hassan II and Prince Moulay Abdallah. Looking down from the terraced walkway, King Mohammed V’s coffin is centrally located. But don’t forget to look up and around, as the ceiling and mosaic tiled walls are quite extraordinary as well.

Around the Kasbah and Mausoleum, I encountered quite a few women offering to draw henna designs on my hand. They can be very persistent. I had one woman follow me through a section of the Kasbah Gardens, “just a small design on your palm” over and over again. It can be very frustrating, especially when you are trying to take in the sights. I had the most luck with either firmly saying “No, thank you” in French or Arabic (Non merci/La shukran) and walking away to another spot or ignoring them altogether. I used these methods throughout my trip when dealing with persistent street vendors.

Rabat, Morocco: Skip the Hotel and Book a Riad

May 6, 2017June 8, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Morocco, Rabat mint tea, Rabat medina, riad

After arriving in Rabat, I caught a petit taxi to the medina area. Be sure to negotiate the fare before getting in the taxi, or have your taxi driver turn on the meter. Rather than getting a hotel room, I booked a room at a Rabat riad in the medina. Riads are private residences that have been converted into lodgings, and typically provide a more authentic Moroccan stay. From the outside, they don’t look like anything spectacular. But once inside, you will marvel at mosaic tile work, courtyard fountains, and ornate arches of restored palatial residences. The medina is a car free area, so the taxi dropped me at the gate nearest to my riad. My taxi driver offered to take me, by foot, to the door of my riad. But I declined, citing a map a brought with me. And I did not want to pay an additional fee for the guided direction. He told me how many lefts and rights I should take and said “one wrong turn and woo!”

I wheeled my bag down the first street, as residents of the area watched my progress. One right and two lefts later, I realized I had missed a street somewhere. Fortunately, I did not go to far off track, and I was able to find my desired alleyway. I also noticed I had picked up two frustrated tourists also wheeling bags, probably hoping we were going to the same place. As I went to ring the bell, they must have realized we weren’t going to the same place, and leaned against the wall, sighing. As I was ushered in, I could hear the riad attendant giving directions to the two outside. Hopefully they made it to where they needed to go. A lot of the streets do not have tiled street signs on the walls, denoting the street you are on. So, it can be difficult to orient yourself once you’ve made a wrong turn.

After checking in, I was welcomed with mint tea and a tray of cookies. The tea ceremony, where the tea is poured at least a foot above the glass, adds a fun bit of flourish and drama.

I was happy to see the mint tea return with breakfast the next morning. After the first, foot high pour, the tea pot was left in the center of the table for self service. Upon finishing my first cup, I reached for the tea pot, then quickly withdrew my hand. It felt like molten lava! More than just a pretty, shiny tea pot, the pewter pot held onto its heat a remarkably long time. Which would explain the hand mitt draped over the handle…

In addition to the close proximity to attractions in Rabat, my riad in the medina had a delightful charm I would not have found at a larger hotel. A cozy, two level room, it was decorated with lanterns, exposed wooden ceilings, narrow, spiral staircase, and colorful glass windows. Unlike traditional medina houses, with windows only inside the home, looking out to the courtyard, the riad also had a few windows to the medina alley outside.

I was also surprised to find that the check out time for the riad was very flexible. After dinner, on my last night, one of the front desk attendants came by to ask me “What time would you like to check out tomorrow?” I stared, confused, back at him. “What is the latest time I can check out?” He laughed and said “What ever time you like.” I hesitantly responded, “Noon?” To which he responded “No problem!” How exciting, I wouldn’t have to rush to pack and get out in the morning!

Rabat, Morocco: Transferring from Casablanca to Rabat? Try the Train!

April 26, 2017June 8, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Morocco, Rabat Casablanca to Rabat, Morocco train, ONCF train, Rabat Ville

If you want to ease into Moroccan culture, rather than diving straight in, one of the best cities to start exploring is Rabat. The capital of Morocco, and deemed by many travel enthusiasts as one of the more tourist friendly cities, Rabat is a great starting point.

Flying in to Casablanca, I took the train from the airport to Rabat Ville. While there is the option to take a grand taxi from the airport to Rabat, the train has two big advantages. First, the ticket price is set, so there is no price haggling necessary. Second, the train is much cheaper. For example, a first class train ticket will cost you around 133 dirham, while the cab will cost around 660 dirham.

Morocco’s ONCF train line to Rabat has first and second class cars and departs on the hour. The primary difference between the classes is that in first class you are guaranteed a seat. First class can also sell out, since they have a set number of seats. In second class, once all the seats are taken, it is standing room only. So, if you buy a first class ticket, you know you will have a seat. There are also spaces to place your luggage in both classes, but you are responsible for getting your bag on and off the train.

Within the train station, there are automated kiosks for purchasing tickets. After getting halfway through my ticket selection, the kiosk displayed an out of order message. Same issue with the second kiosk I tried. So, I ended up queuing at the service counter and purchasing my ticket from an attendant.

There is no direct train to Rabat, so I did have to change trains at Casa Port. According to the train schedule, the trip should have been about an hour. But my trip was closer to two hours. Within the city of Rabat, there are two stations, Agdal and Ville, so verify which stop you actually need to get off at.

One thing I did find confusing was the labeling of the trains. The first train, from the airport to Casa Port, did not have clear identification for the first class car vs the second class car. When boarding, I did not see any identifiers, so I just grabbed the first available seat. Turns out I was in the second class car, rather than my intended first class car. But it wasn’t crowded, so I opted to stay put. When the attendant came by to stamp my ticket, he informed me I was in the wrong car, in French. I explained that I had gotten confused and my bag was already stowed. He chuckled and wished me a pleasant journey.

Once I got to Casa Port, I disembarked and noticed a waiting train on the other side of the platform. There were no signs or numbers on the waiting train, so I was not clear as to whether or not this was my train. And according to the station bulletin, it was train #27. My ticket said train #35. After a few more moments of confusion, I found a station attendant. I pointed at the train and asked “Rabat?” Nodding and motioning me to board quickly, I hopped on the train. No need for the rush though. We sat at the platform for another 20-25 minutes.