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Algarve, Portugal: Scenic Coastal Drive

January 18, 2017June 9, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Europe, Portugal Algarve, Boca do Inferno, Cascais, Hells Mouth, Marina de Cascais, olives, Tavira

On my way out of Lisbon, en route to Seville, Spain, I decided to take the opportunity to see more of Portugal. Roughly 4.5 hours from Lisbon to Seville by car, I figured I could afford to meander a bit. So I picked a route along the coastline, and selected several stops to make in the Algarve area.

Leaving Lisbon, cork trees can be spotted all along both sides of the highway. If you are not sure what to look for, just keep an eye out for rust colored tree trunks. When the tree is harvested, the bark along the trunk of the tree is removed, exposing a red-ish under-bark. The bark takes several years to grow back, so trees do not undergo annual harvesting. The collected bark is then sent off for processing. One of the many final products of cork bark is the humble wine bottle cork.

Olive trees are also in abundance. A staple of the Mediterranean, the olive is a common appetizer dish in Portugal. The olives are also harvested for the purpose of being pressed into olive oil, which is widely used on breads, vegetables, and salads.

Approaching a stretch of little resort towns with striking cliff backdrops, I stopped off at one of the beaches along the route. Late September appeared to be the off-season for beach going, as there were few people around. Strong winds off the Atlantic were blowing across the beach, but otherwise, it was a bright, sunny day. However, after a few minutes of brisk winds, I decided it was too chilly for any extended time lounging about or even watching the waves come in.

My next scenic pit stop was near the Marina de Cascais. Sharing the same space, old stone walls of a 15th century fort decorate one side of the marina. Parts of the fort appear to have been renovated as well. A restaurant and high end hotel have taken up residence in and around the fort walls. Combined, the union of old and modern make a lovely, postcard perfect view.

Due to the rocky terrain along some of Portugal’s coast, there are quite a few interesting grottoes, caves, and blowholes. One of these exceptional natural wonders near Cascais is the Boca do Inferno, or Hell’s Mouth. What likely started out as a cave along the coastline cliff, was eventually shaped and eroded by the ocean waves. This natural molding created a rock archway, a surviving piece of the cave roof, and a circular pool that ebbs and flows with the waves. It is a free attraction, and definitely worth a look!

Nearing the border with Spain, I made one final stop in the town of Tavira. One thing I discovered, and continued to have re-affirmed during my trip, was that some of my shoes just do not fair well on the smooth stones of the cobbled streets. Strolling was fine, but I couldn’t move at any other speed, besides slow. I guess that was the town’s way of saying “slow down and enjoy life!”

Walking towards the center of town, I found a plethora of restaurants and cafes. After browsing a few of the sidewalk menus, I was flagged down by one of the hosts. He was speaking so quickly, I could not make out if he was speaking Portuguese or French. So I took a gamble, and asked for English with the few French words I did know. He switched languages so fast, I was shocked, impressed, and a bit embarrassed by my own limited linguistics. In his rapid fire English, he dispensed with all the pros of his restaurant and menu listings. He even offered a complimentary glass of port. But I couldn’t help but notice that no one was in (or sitting outside) his restaurant. All the other surrounding areas seemed busy enough. True or not, I took this as an indication that this was probably not the best place to eat.

Farther out from the town center, I found a lovely little restaurant that was neither too crowded, or deserted. The menu featured lots of locally farmed produce and fresh caught fish. Thinking of the olive trees I passed that morning, I ordered an appetizer platter of local olives. A few moments later, I was surreptitiously removing pits from the olives I already popped into my mouth, thinking they were pitted. Knife and fork in hand, I examined the next few olives. And after painstakingly removing the pits with my utensils, I resigned myself to the covert napkin-to-mouth removal. In addition to the plate of olives, there was an empty companion plate. I realized, after excavating my first olive pit, the empty plate was for the pits. No harm, no foul, and lots of delicious olives!

And, like I mentioned in my previous post (Sintra: Lunch and Dining Tips), the wait staff will leave you in peace. So, when you are ready, you have to ask for the check.

Sintra, Portugal: Lunch and Dining Tips

January 11, 2017January 27, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Portugal, Sintra dining tips, lunch, Sintra

The square immediately in front of the Palace of Sintra has quite a few easily accessible restaurants. If you do not feel up to exercising your Portuguese, most of the restaurants have menus, with pictures, at the host/hostess station. Though, I did find enough English on several menus I skimmed to piece together what was included in each dish. Surprisingly, there were a lot of crepes and Italian dishes being advertised.

I found myself and a few others from the group wandering up the inclined streets, in search of a more regional, authentic lunch stop. I passed by several outdoor cafes and cozy looking bed and breakfasts on my way up. After a bit of aimless wandering, I ended up in front of a stone, cottage-like restaurant with a pebbled terrace and overgrown vines along the walls.

Inside, the homey, cottage feel continued. The cups and plates appeared to follow a similar theme; they were all mismatched. Porcelain dishes, heavy clay plates and mugs, painted garden flowers, and ocean blues with raised patterns. Even the utensils looked like a college student’s collection of orphaned forks, spoons, and knives. The seats were all sunken in the middle, like the springs had given out; I sat down in a chair and had the immediate impression that I was falling through to the floor. I thought I had picked a bad chair until I tested a few around me and realized all the chairs had a sunken feeling to them.

The place mats had amusing food related sayings, in English and Portuguese:

“A cada boca uma sopa” (To each mouth a soup)

“The neighbours chicken is always better than mine”

“e manha de Portugal: comer bem, beber bem, e dizer mal”

TIP: In most restaurants, you can pick your table if it is not too busy. So go ahead, get that table by the window!

Instead of telling the waiter my order, I was presented with a slip of paper with the lunch offerings, and a jar of pencils at the center of the table. The table collectively checked off the items we wanted and presented our handiwork to the waiter. At the time, it seemed organized enough, but this is where our later problem originated. I was with a small group, and what we thought we had ordered was a garlic prawns starter and varied sandwiches.

TIP: The wait staff will come by and place bread, olives, etc on the table when you sit down. These are NOT complimentary, and you will be charged for what you eat. But, if you do not want them, just leave them on the table or let your waiter know.

TIP: Water is likely to be bottled, not tap, and consequently an extra charge. This is a pretty common practice in Europe.

About 20 minutes after we ordered, the prawns came out. Checking our watches, we figured the sandwiches would be out shortly, giving us enough time to congregate back at the bus at our specified time. Unfortunately, that was not to be. Another 10 minutes went by.. The group started to get anxious, as if we could all hear the tick, tick, tick, tick of our tour clock. And our waiter was no where to be found. After another 10 minutes, we abandoned the idea of eating the sandwiches at the table and settled on getting them wrapped up for our flight back down the cobbled streets.

I found myself calculating how fast we could pay the check, collect our things, run down the cobbled, serpentine streets, and still make it to the bus; I did a few more mental calculations, adjusting for, and without, pedestrian traffic blocking our path, before our waiter reappeared.

“Could we get our sandwiches to go?” we asked. He stared blankly back at us. So we tried again, “the sandwiches we ordered, could we get them to go? We have a bus to catch.” He frowns at us, and then sighs in frustration, “Wait, you ordered sandwiches?” He pulls out the slip of paper with our orders, “Ah..”

After profuse apologies about the misunderstanding, we paid for the starter and dashed down the steep, cobbled streets.

In a last ditch attempt to find something to eat, I ducked into a bakery with sandwiches in the window front, along the route back to the bus. As calmly as I could, I ordered a couple of sandwiches; and with a wink from the shopkeeper, I was off again. I wondered if this happens often, he seemed rather amused.

A few moments later, I was on the bus with five minutes to spare, victory!

TIP: One recommendation from a fellow traveler I found to be very handy: ask for your check when you place your order if you are on a tight schedule. Unlike in the US, the waitstaff is not trying to hurry you out so they can turn over the table. They will leave you in peace, and sometimes disappear for long stretches.

Sintra, Portugal: Hilltop Palaces and Pillow Pastries

January 4, 2017June 9, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Portugal, Sintra, Travel Coat of Arms Tower Sintra, Magpies Room Sintra, Moorish Castle Sintra, Palace of Sintra, Pillow pastry, Sintra Palace, Sintra Portugal, Swans Hall Sintra, travesseiro

The allures of Sintra’s palaces, castles, mountain trails and vistas, and brightly painted towns are only about 30 minutes outside of Lisbon. So, on my final day in Lisbon, I booked a day trip out to Sintra. The booking included pickup and return transportation, but you can also get to Sintra by train.

Arriving at the town center of Sintra, you can see the Moorish Castle, Castelo dos Mouros, tucked into the hilltop. Dating back to the 10th century, the castle was established by the Moors to help fortify their position along the conquered Iberian Peninsula. Some more recent excavations along the Moorish Castle have even yielded artifacts belonging to the Bronze Age period (1200 BC). So, it would seem the Moors weren’t the only ones to see the strategic advantage of the location.

If you have the time and an adventurous heart, there are three mapped hiking trails leading up to the Moorish Castle. The routes are ranked from easy to difficult, with the easiest route being the Percursio de Santa Maria. Depending on where you catch the Santa Maria, it will take you about an hour or less to arrive at the top. One of the downsides of being a part of a guided tour is that you are limited in the amount of time you have to explore; so hiking was out for me.

The Palace of Sintra, also built by the Moors, became a Portuguese royal residence after the Portuguese Reconquest. Since then, it has undergone several renovations. Glazed tiles cover the walls and inlay wood accents can be found all around the palace. Some of my favorite rooms included the Swans Hall, Magpies Room, and the Coat of Arms Tower.

Swans Hall, also referred to as the Prince’s Room and the Great Hall, is so named for the ceiling of 27 painted swans in wooden frames. Each of the swans has an upside down golden crown around its neck. According to my guide, the ceiling was painted to honor the Princess Isabella, who loved swans. Isabella was the only daughter of King Joao and Queen Philippa, and much beloved. Later in life, Isabella was married to a foreign Duke (Philip, Duke of Burgundy). Her parents were so sad to see her go, they painted Isabella’s favorite bird on the ceiling of the great hall. There is one swan for each year of her unwed life, 27 total. Upon my return home, I looked up the story of Isabella and the Swans Hall. However, I have not been able to find a historical record of this tale. Additionally, it is recorded that Isabella was married at 30, not 27. So, consider this a fun, historical fiction to explain the presence of the swans on the ceiling.

The Magpie Room’s primary function was to receive the royalty’s distinguished guests. Prominent features of the room include a ceiling painted with magpies, holding banners with the words “Por Bem” (For the Good), and fantastic glazed tiles along the walls. I couldn’t help but think that “For the Good” seemed like an odd thing for a magpie to say. Especially since I’ve only ever heard them decried as a nuisance and inclined to carry away shiny objects. The unofficial story is that the King of Portugal had been caught kissing a lady in waiting, which, as you can imagine, created a great deal of gossip. The king then had a magpie painted on the ceiling for each gossiping lady in his court.

From the Coat of Arms Tower, looking out the windows faced west, you can see the Atlantic Ocean. A large, square shaped room, the Coat of Arms includes family crests from the influential noble families of the kingdom of Portugal. Above those crests, a row of Stags creates a division between the family crests and the coat of arms for each of the children of King Manuel I and Queen Maria. On the dome of the ceiling is the crest of Portugal, with a dragon like creature sitting on top of a crown. Along the walls are murals of hunting scenes in blue tiles called azulejos.

Along the backside of the palace is a large, banquet-sized, ready kitchen. The two white, conical chimney stacks from the kitchen give the palace a recognizable landmark. Standing in the kitchen, looking up the chimney, you can see the sky. I visited the palace on a nice, clear day. But, I imagine when it rains outside, it also rains in the kitchen. Though, this may be more of a modern day problem. When the palace was in use, the kitchens likely always had a fire going. So the continual heat going up the stack may also have served to keep a lot of the water out.

Outside the palace, the surrounding town is full of restaurants and small shops. Some of the streets are too narrow for a car to get through; some were challenging enough with two-way pedestrian traffic. From one of the bakeries, I tried my first travesseiro pastry. Translated into “pillow,” the pastry can best be described as an almond puff type pastry. As you can imagine by the name, it was a nice light, flaky pastry. I was covered in sugar by the time I finished eating it, and I’m glad I only got one. If I had ordered a box of them, I would have surely eaten them all on the bus before I made it back to Lisbon.

Lisbon, Portugal: Alfama and the Age of Discovery

December 28, 2016June 9, 2017 Elizabeth 1 Comment Lisbon, Portugal, Travel Age of Discovery monument, Alfama, Belem, Belem Tower, Church of Saint Anthony, Henry the Navigator, Lisbon, Padrao dos Descobrimentos, Se Cathedral

Hoping to avoid some of the crowds, I arrived in the Alfama neighborhood in the early morning. Chairs at open air cafes were still stacked. Local grocery shops were just opening their doors and setting up sidewalk displays along cobblestone streets, narrow and steep in places.

The Alfama is the oldest neighborhood in Lisbon. Since its initial settlement, the neighborhood has changed hands several times. The Romans, Visigoths, and Moors all called Lisbon home at one point. In modern times, the Alfama is primarily characterized as a neighborhood of working class fishermen.

One of the highlights of the Alfama is the Se Cathedral de Lisboa. Originally the site of a mosque, a cathedral was built in its place after the Moors were conquered by Portuguese King Alfonso I in the 12th century.

By starting from the Se Cathedral and walking downwards, you can avoid huffing and puffing up the more steeply inclined sections. Vendors line up along the Cruzes da Se, leading up to the Cathedral, poised and ready to sell passers-by postcards, bracelets, and other souvenirs. And like in most European cities, keep an eye out for motorbikes when crossing streets!

Across the street from the Se Cathedral is the Church of Saint Anthony. Born in Lisbon, Saint Anthony is the Patron Saint of Lost Things. You may be familiar with the rhyme:

Tony Tony Turn Around
What was lost must be found

While in Lisbon, I heard several stories involving the Saint’s abilities. In addition to praying for the return of lost items, you can also pray to Saint Anthony for a romantic partner. Or, if you do not like your current partner, you can pray for a better partner! A statue of the Saint can be found outside of the Church of Saint Anthony holding a book. If you toss a coin and it lands on the book, it is said that your request will be granted.

The guidebook I picked up for Lisbon described the streets of the Alfama as pleasantly winding. If you know where you are going or you aren’t terribly concerned with time, the streets of the Alfama are quite picturesque. But, if you get turned about easily, it feels more like a labyrinth of never ending side streets.

Tram 28 is a great option for getting up to the Alfama.

After working my way down from the Alfama, I headed down to the Belem neighborhood. Along the river side, the Age of Discovery monument and Belem Tower are within walking distance of each other.

The Age of Discovery (Padrão dos Descobrimentos) monument honors Henry the Navigator and other key Portuguese players from the 15th and 16th centuries. While not the original monument, the one currently standing was constructed in 1960. Its inauguration marked the 500th year anniversary of Henry the Navigator’s death.

I was very excited to see the monument after reading about the design. The monument, sitting on the banks of the Tagus River, was designed like the prow of a ship. At the front is Henry the Navigator. He holds in his hands a ship, cradled like he is about to launch it forth towards the Atlantic and other great discoveries. Behind him are a procession of people who made the age of discovery for Portugal possible; Saints, explorers, like Vasco de Gama and Ferdinand Magellan, map makers, nobility, and clergy.

Unfortunately, when I went to visit the monument, it was being cleaned, restored, and consequently obscured by scaffolding. I could only just make out Henry and his ship.

The square surrounding the monument is decorated with a tiled compass rose. A gift to Portugal from the Republic of South Africa, the center of the compass rose is a world map, illustrating Portuguese ships and historic dates.

About a 15 minute walk away from the Age of Discovery is the Belem Tower, also situated on the bank of the Tagus River. From the Tower, you have a view of the river and the Atlantic Ocean. Built in the early 1500s by Manuel I, the Tower is now a UNESCO heritage site. The Tower is defined by a medieval style tower (Donjon) and terraces around the exterior. Its original purpose was to protect Lisbon from threats coming in by way of the Atlantic Ocean. The Old Tower, on the opposite bank of the river, was part of the defensive strategy for Lisbon. Together, the Belem and Old Towers could volley shots when an adversary sailed in.

After all that walking around, it may be useful to note that there are restroom facilities near the Belem Tower. If you are standing in front of the Tower, they are just to the right. But, be prepared to pay! When I was there, a line was formed outside the ladies’ room (typical) and a woman was at the front taking payment and passing out tickets. If I recall correctly, it was 50 cents (in Euros), AND I got a souvenir ticket stub! 😉

Lisbon, Portugal: Mosaic Sidewalks, Architecture, and Cod

December 21, 2016June 9, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Lisbon, Portugal, Travel Arco da Rua Augusta, bacalhau, Lisbon, Lisbon aqueduct, port, Portugal, Praca do Comercio, tile

My trip from airport to hotel was helmed by a very friendly Lisbon native, who took great pride in pointing out attractions and noteworthy locations. I couldn’t help up notice how much Lisbon reminded me of another popular destination. From the hilly streets and trams to the 25 de Abril suspension bridge, the first impression similarities between Lisbon and San Francisco are quite intriguing.

The hotel I was staying at was very close to the Marques de Pombal metro station, along the Avenida da Liberdade. Sprawling works of mosaic tile art make up the sidewalks along the avenue. The arrangements of white and black tiles create lovely, eye catching patterns. Continuing down towards the Rossi Square area, the tile work covers the entire square and mimics the rippling of ocean waves. While lovely, the tiles seem to cause some grief for the locals. And on my walk to dinner one night, I quickly discovered why. They are SLIPPERY when wet! One minute, I was walking along, and the next moment, I was unexpectedly gliding forward. I made it to my destination without any meet-and-greets with the sidewalk, but I was very anxious about where I stepped after that..

Continuing to the downtown area of Lisbon, I reached the Praca do Comercio (Commerical Square), looking out to the Tagus River. The square was originally the site of the Ribeira Palace, which was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. Owing to its proximity to the river, the square was once a major thoroughfare for the shipment of goods. With a statue of King Jose I in the center of the square, the area is surrounded on three sides by golden-yellow colored buildings. Directly behind the statue is the Arco da Rua Augusta. The Arc represents the rebirth of Lisbon after the destruction of the city in 1755 by earthquake, fire, and tsunami. On the top of the arch are the depictions of Glory, Valor, and Ingenuity; Glory, in the center, is holding out crowns to Valor and Ingenuity.

If you wander around the downtown area, you’ll notice the buildings are pretty uniform. The 1755 earthquake, followed by several fires and a tsunami, destroyed a great deal of the city. With the city in ruins, there was an immediate need to rebuild quickly and cost effectively. Marques de Pombal was charged with redesigning the city of Lisbon. Prefabrication of buildings became very popular during the reconstruction. Consequently, the architectural features of the buildings in downtown Lisbon are nearly identical. Additionally, the pre-earthquake avenues were a winding and narrow collection of roads. In the reconstruction, they were replaced with the wide avenues you can see today.

My first night in Lisbon, I tried the bacalhau, which is salted cod fish. Bacalhau, dried and salted, is a popular staple in Portuguese dishes. As it was explained to me, the dried fish is rehydrated in order to be prepped and cooked. I love seafood and I was really looking forward to trying my very first bacalhau dish. Unfortunately, it did not go over as well as I had hoped. I ordered the bacalhau at my hotel restaurant, which I later realized was a mistake. The restaurant’s primary function was for convenience, not necessarily for taste and experience. So, I should not have been surprised when my fish came out rather tough and dry around the edges. The second night, I had more success with a seafood restaurant a few blocks away from my hotel. I ordered the Prawns a Bras, which was a delicious, generous sized portion. I just didn’t have the nerve to sample any more bacalhau.

If cod fish is not to your liking, there is plenty of Port wine to sample. Portugal is home to the sweet wine, Port, offering up a collection of styles (white, rose, tawny, ruby) and age ranges. Some restaurants in Lisbon even offer a complimentary after-dinner Port. I sampled my first white Port, but the tawny was definitely my favorite. If you are fairly new to wine (or an expert), there are plenty of wine bars in Lisbon prepared to answer all your Port questions, and offer a healthy pour!

On a side note: If you find yourself driving around the Alcantara valley, keep an eye out for the aqueduct arches! Constructed in the mid 1700s, the Aqueduct survived the 1755 earthquake and continued to supply the city of Lisbon with water until 1967. The Aqueduct holds the world record for the highest stone arch, measuring at 65.29 m high and 28.86 m wide (or 214 feet high and 94.6 feet wide)!