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Costa del Sol: Sunny, Sandy Torremolinos

April 6, 2017June 9, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Costa del Sol, Spain Costa de la Carihuela, Costa del Sol, sandcastles, Torremolinos

Torremolinos, on the Costa del Sol and a 20 minute car ride away from Malaga, is another great resort town. With the average high temperature ranging from high-50s to upper-80s, Torremolinos has a continual stream of visitors.

The combination of snow birds and short-term vacationers seemed to explain the interesting array of lodging options. I stayed at a resort that was a mixture of privately owned condos and hotel rooms. Two doors down from mine, a personalized welcome mat and wreath decorated someone’s vacation home. It was a very interwoven arrangement, as a maid service still made its way through the rooms needing turn over for a new guest. Additionally, the seasonal visitors would pack the hotel restaurant, while the owners cooked in their condos and dined out on their verandas.

Walking past the hotel-condo’s deserted pool, the back gate opened out onto the Costa de la Carihuela boardwalk. Running the length of the beach, the walkway is complete with restaurants, beach bars called chiringuitos, and excursion offices lining either side. The chiringuitos appeared to be spaced 50 yards apart, each with a different name, like Antonio y Ana and Jesus y Tere.

The space just off the boardwalk, before arriving at the sea of beach chairs, was taken up by meticulously constructed sandcastles and sand sculptures. Every couple of feet was a new masterpiece, along with a bucket for donations.

Once the sun starts to set, vendors start laying out merchandise for sale along the walkway. Most of what I saw fell under the category of clothing and accessories. It kind of felt like the mall came to us. The vendors weren’t pestering passers by, just standing by in case something catches your eye. With the two way foot traffic, space on the boardwalk does become a little tight in places though.

Walking around the shops and along the beach, I noticed there were quite a few British themed restaurants and pubs. Torremolinos must be a popular vacation spot for Brits, as I ran into more Britons than Spaniards. I should have known that was the reason why all the English Breakfast tea was cleaned out before I even made it down to breakfast. One morning I was standing behind an older gentleman, waiting to get hot water for my tea, when he noticed I had a tea packet. After realizing it was just green tea, and not the coveted black tea, he chuckled and said he didn’t think Americans liked tea. Thankfully, this American is perfectly happy with green tea. 🙂

Costa del Sol: Malaga’s Palms and Picasso

March 29, 2017June 9, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Costa del Sol, Spain Alcazaba, Malaga, Malaga Marina, Paseo Espana, Picasso Museum, Roman Amphitheater

The Costa del Sol, the southern coast of Spain’s Malaga province, is made up of beach resort towns dotting the coastline, and bits of unspoiled natural beauty in between. In the U.S., the Costa del Sol would be comparable to the beach resorts of Florida.

Despite the endless miles of hi-rise condos along the beachfront, there are some truly unique sights in Malaga. A pretty pedestrian friendly city, I spent an afternoon walking around the marina area and nearby streets. Be sure to pack a hat, you’ll get a lot of sun walking around any of the towns of the Costa del Sol. There also seemed to be plenty of bike rental stations around this area, if you want a little more speed.

Running parallel to the marina area, the Paseo de Espana is a lush, green walk through palm trees and other tropical fauna. Though, admittedly, on a warm, sunny day, those palm trees feel as though they are spaced a few feet further apart than truly necessary. The blazing sun hits you for a few extended seconds in these spaces. As you near the traffic circle at Fuente de las Tres Gracias, turn right, and you will find a walkway that will take you down to the harbor. Be mindful of the bikes sharing the path with you. Not too far from me, a lady stepped backwards to get a better picture of the harbor, and backed right into an oncoming cyclist. They both went down, and undoubtedly got up with more bruises to their egos than their physical selves.

From the marina, if you cross back over to the Paseo de Espana and turn at the Museo de Malaga, you will come to a street that will lead you towards the Alcazaba and the Roman Amphitheater.

Unearthed in 1951 during a construction project to establish a House of Culture, the Roman Amphitheater is believed to date back to the 1st Century. Around the 3rd century, the theater fell out of use. After that time, the theater’s stone and assorted materials were re-purposed for other buildings. Excavation and restoration works are still in progress, but visitors are allowed to wander through the terraces of the theater.

Backing up to the Amphitheater, you can see the Alcazaba on the hilltop. While they were built several centuries apart, the two structures appear easily and purposefully intertwined. The Alcazaba, a fortress and palace constructed in the 11th century, is said to be similar to the Alhambra. If you don’t have time to go to the Alhambra, the Alcazaba is a good substitute. Since I was already planning to visit the Alhambra, I skipped it. But if you are in Malaga and don’t plan to make a stop in Granada, Alcazaba is easy enough to get to!

Also within easy walking distance, the Picasso Museum is just a few turns away. Winding through the narrow streets, with a fair amount of foot traffic, I realized how very easily I could have missed the turn for the museum. I was too busy looking in shops and at the old city walls. But, a crowd of people standing in line in front of a building alerted me of my arrival. Situated in a lovely, stone building with central courtyard, the museum boasts over 200 pieces of Pablo Picasso’s work, created throughout his life. Arranged in time periods, the rooms trace the artist’s early beginnings, experimentations in color and perception, up to some of his final pieces. Only parts of the museum are air conditioned, so that may be useful to keep in mind if it is an especially warm day.

After the musuem, I strolled down Calle Marques de Larios, a nice place to take in the old European architecture and window-shop the boutique displays lining this pedestrian street. Even better with ice cream! Or stop by one of the bodegas and try a local vermouth on tap.

Cordoba, Spain: La Mezquita

February 8, 2017June 9, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Cordoba, Spain, Travel Cathedral de Cordoba, Cordoba Bridge, Cordoba Spain, La Mezquita

Two hours from Seville, Cordoba makes for a great day trip. Upon arrival, I met up with a local guide, for a tour of Cordoba’s popular attraction, La Mezquita.

While making our way along the riverside, up to the mosque-cathedral, my guide pointed out the Old Roman bridge just ahead of us. The bridge, made up of 16 arches, was originally constructed in the 1st century AD by the Romans. No auto traffic is allowed on this bridge, so it is strictly a pedestrian walkway. Since its initial installation, the bridge has undergone several renovations, with the most recent in 2009. My guide also mentioned that it was a lovely bridge before the more recent renovation, and that the restoration effort was done too well. The bridge is too perfect, and as such, a lot of the charm was lost.

Walking through the gates of La Mezquita, you find yourself in an expansive courtyard. In addition to the orange and palm trees around the enclosed space, there are mini trenches directing water to the network of trees. Be careful where you step; at best, you will have a wet shoe, or worse, you could hurt yourself falling onto the cobbled stone floor. During the time when La Mezquita was a mosque, the water would have been used for the purpose of pre-prayer purification.

Inside La Mezquita, you are protected from the sun, and the cooler temperature in the building is an immediate relief… That is, until the humidity starts to overpower the initial feeling of cool.

From the outside, La Mezquita has the appearance of a mosque, turned cathedral. However, the mosque was built over the remains of the Basilica of Saint Vincent. Believed to have been constructed in the 6th century, the basilica still bears some of the original inscriptions.

The first open area of La Mezquita was the original mosque built on this site in the 8th century. The space is dominated by red and white striped, decorative arches and wooden ceilings. The columns the arches stand on make up a collection of re-purposed columns of varying materials and styles.

The mosque was later expanded in the 9th century, and again in the 10th century. Additional double arches, skylights, and crossed arches mark the continued expansion.

The Mihrab, towards the back of the arched hall, is the focal point and prayer corner of the mosque. The area around the Mihrab is more elaborately decorated, indicating the importance of this section. Gold mosaics are used around the arch of the doorway, shaped into decorative patterns. Verses from the Quran are also inlaid in gold around the borders. As light reflects off the mosaics, the doorway glows. Around the glow, the representation of the “tree of life” sprawls along the wall in intricate patterns.

In the 13th century, the Cathedral of Cordoba took the place of the mosque. The addition of the main chapel was one of the bigger structural changes commissioned. Over the 200 years it took to complete, the styles used in construction varied. Two of the styles, Gothic and Renaissance, incorporated buttresses, trace vaults, and oval vaults.

Stories claim King Carlos I, gave his consent to build the main chapel in the cathedral, but was later dismayed by construction. In order for the main chapel to go in, the roof had to be removed from that section of the church. During a visit to the cathedral, Carlos I is said to have lamented destroying such a beautiful, perfectly functional church.

Seville, Spain: Cathedral by Day, Flamenco by Night

February 1, 2017June 9, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Seville, Spain, Travel Aragon, Castile, Christopher Columbus tomb, flamenco, Giralda Tower, Granada, Leon, Navarre, Puerta del Perdon, Seville Cathedral

Continuing through the Santa Cruz neighborhood, I made my way towards the Seville Cathedral and Giralda Tower.

Seville Cathedral, also known as St Mary of the See, is a UNESCO heritage site and the largest Gothic Cathedral in the world. Like many of the cathedrals I have visited on the Iberian Penninsula, the Seville Cathedral was originally a mosque. Remnants of the old mosque, Almohad, can still be seen in the architecture of the cathedral. The Giralda minaret and Puerta del Perdon are examples of the original structure.

The Giralda Tower, a brick, minaret structure with intricate patterns, is accessible with your ticket to the Cathedral. A series of ramps lead to the top of the tower, with a spectacular view of the surrounding cathedral and Seville.

After the reconquest of Seville, a bell tower was added to the top of the mosque’s minaret. The embellishment was a way of announcing the building’s new purpose, as a Catholic cathedral. Then, in the 16th century, a bronze statue, representing Faith, was added to the top of the tower. The Faith statue holds a cross and a shield; the shield acts as a weather vane, blowing with the wind.

Puerta del Perdon, or Door of Forgiveness, is mentioned above as one of the original gates of the old mosque. The intricate details of the horseshoe-like arch echo the identity of the original structure, while the sculptures and bells signify its re-purposing.

Inside the Seville Cathedral, Christopher Columbus’s tomb is located by the Door of the Prince. Mirroring his life, Columbus’s remains traveled quite a bit. Columbus was initially buried in Spain, then his remains were sent to Hispaniola. After the French took control of Hispaniola, Columbus’s remains were moved to Cuba, and later, back to Spain. After a bit of controversy over the authenticity of the remains, DNA tests were performed. Experts were able to confirm that the remains are of Columbus. The tomb symbolically represents the four regions of Spain, with a pallbearer from each region. The two pallbearers in the front represent Castile and Leon, and the two at the rear are Aragon and Navarre. Castile’s robes are decorated with the three tower castle from the Castile Coat of Arms. Leon is garbed in a lion emblazoned robe, while holding a spear with a cross, piercing a pomegranate. The Spanish word for pomegranate is “granada,” and the spear symbolizes Leon’s conquest of Granada. Navarre’s Coat of Arms includes chains, which are used to symbolize Navarre’s pallbearer. And, lastly, Aragon’s robes are patterned with bats (though there is some argument as to whether or not they are actually winged dragons or swallows).

The Andalusian region that Seville resides in is also known for its flamenco origins. So, that evening, I attended a flamenco show not too far from my hotel. Flamenco is primarily characterized by song, dance, and guitar. Emotionally charged, the dancers use foot stomping, hand snaps and claps, and animated hand and arm gestures to express themselves. Surprisingly, I got a great seat, front and center. However, in the future, I think I will pick a seat a further back from the stage. One of flamenco’s trademarks is the rhythmic stomping. And being that close to the stage, I could see the dust swirling around. Every barrette or flower lost from a dancers’ hair became a potential projectile to the face! And when it comes to dance, I believe there is such a thing as “too close to the stage.” Flamenco is such a full bodied dance, I was just too close to see the full picture. I felt so zoomed in, I could only see the footwork, or the hand movements, or the facial expressions. Never more than one at a time. But I love flamenco, and I would happily go again.

Seville, Spain: From Maria Luisa Park to Santa Cruz

January 25, 2017June 9, 2017 Elizabeth 1 Comment Seville, Spain, Travel Christopher Columbus, Maria Luisa Park, Murillo Gardens, Plaza de Espana, Santa Cruz

The Maria Luisa Park area is a great place to start exploring Seville. Easily accessible by bus, the park is centrally located and within walking distance of other attractions in the area. As you are taking in the serenity of the park, be mindful of where you step! Horse drawn carriages frequent the area, and consequently, there are fresh surprises along some of the paths.

On the top of my list, the Plaza de Espana, which can be reached by walking through the Maria Luisa Park.

The Plaza de Espana was built for the Ibero-American Exhibition World Fair hosted by Spain in 1929. The plaza features an extensive, brick building encircling the plaza, with a lake in the center. Along the exterior of the building, the wall is broken up into 48 distinct sections of tiling and benches. Each of these 48 sections represent the provinces that make up Spain. The colorful tile work illustrates scenes depicting the province’s history.

In addition to the 1929 Exhibition and the housing of government offices, the plaza has also been the location of several films. You may recognize the distinct architecture of the plaza from scenes in Lawrence of Arabia and Star Wars: The Clone Wars.

While in the plaza, I did come across vendors selling all sorts of souvenirs: fans, castanets, drums. I also saw a few fellow tourists approached by Gypsy women, offering a small branch of rosemary or heather. It is important to note that this plant offering is NOT free! A lady in the plaza, not too far from me, learned this the hard way. A young woman, carrying a handful of leafy plant, offered the older woman some “lucky” heather. As the older woman took hold of the heather, the younger woman held on to the older woman’s hand. Leaning in, the younger woman was insisting on money in return for the lucky plant. Fortunately, this woman was able to free her hand from the younger woman and her lucky heather.

From the Plaza de Espana, it is about a 15 minute walk to the Real Alcazar, the royal palace in Seville. If you walk along the walls of the palace, through the Murillo Gardens, you will pass by the Monument to Christopher Columbus. The Columbus monument consists of two white pillars, a miniature rendering of one of Columbus’s three ships used to cross the Atlantic, and topped with a lion. Also towards the top of the monument, the date of Columbus’s landing in the Americas is engraved. Originally a part of the Real Alcazar, the gardens were donated to the city of Seville for public use. The gardens are named after the Spanish painter Bartolome Murillo, whose works can be found on display at El Prado in Madrid.

Shortly after passing the Columbus monument, turn left, along the Calle Antonio el Balarin to enter the Jewish Quarter. Also known as Santa Cruz, this picturesque and inviting neighborhood has a dark history. In 1492, following the Alhambra Decree, the Jewish population was ordered to be expelled from Spain. Residents were told to either convert to Catholicism or leave the country. The neighborhood subsequently fell into decline until an urban revitalization project in the 1800s.

The streets are very narrow, but with the tall buildings on either side, it has the added appeal of blocking the intense Spanish sun from pedestrians.