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Seville, Spain: Cathedral by Day, Flamenco by Night

Continuing through the Santa Cruz neighborhood, I made my way towards the Seville Cathedral and Giralda Tower.

Seville Cathedral, also known as St Mary of the See, is a UNESCO heritage site and the largest Gothic Cathedral in the world. Like many of the cathedrals I have visited on the Iberian Penninsula, the Seville Cathedral was originally a mosque. Remnants of the old mosque, Almohad, can still be seen in the architecture of the cathedral. The Giralda minaret and Puerta del Perdon are examples of the original structure.

The Giralda Tower, a brick, minaret structure with intricate patterns, is accessible with your ticket to the Cathedral. A series of ramps lead to the top of the tower, with a spectacular view of the surrounding cathedral and Seville.

After the reconquest of Seville, a bell tower was added to the top of the mosque’s minaret. The embellishment was a way of announcing the building’s new purpose, as a Catholic cathedral. Then, in the 16th century, a bronze statue, representing Faith, was added to the top of the tower. The Faith statue holds a cross and a shield; the shield acts as a weather vane, blowing with the wind.

Puerta del Perdon, or Door of Forgiveness, is mentioned above as one of the original gates of the old mosque. The intricate details of the horseshoe-like arch echo the identity of the original structure, while the sculptures and bells signify its re-purposing.

Inside the Seville Cathedral, Christopher Columbus’s tomb is located by the Door of the Prince. Mirroring his life, Columbus’s remains traveled quite a bit. Columbus was initially buried in Spain, then his remains were sent to Hispaniola. After the French took control of Hispaniola, Columbus’s remains were moved to Cuba, and later, back to Spain. After a bit of controversy over the authenticity of the remains, DNA tests were performed. Experts were able to confirm that the remains are of Columbus. The tomb symbolically represents the four regions of Spain, with a pallbearer from each region. The two pallbearers in the front represent Castile and Leon, and the two at the rear are Aragon and Navarre. Castile’s robes are decorated with the three tower castle from the Castile Coat of Arms. Leon is garbed in a lion emblazoned robe, while holding a spear with a cross, piercing a pomegranate. The Spanish word for pomegranate is “granada,” and the spear symbolizes Leon’s conquest of Granada. Navarre’s Coat of Arms includes chains, which are used to symbolize Navarre’s pallbearer. And, lastly, Aragon’s robes are patterned with bats (though there is some argument as to whether or not they are actually winged dragons or swallows).

The Andalusian region that Seville resides in is also known for its flamenco origins. So, that evening, I attended a flamenco show not too far from my hotel. Flamenco is primarily characterized by song, dance, and guitar. Emotionally charged, the dancers use foot stomping, hand snaps and claps, and animated hand and arm gestures to express themselves. Surprisingly, I got a great seat, front and center. However, in the future, I think I will pick a seat a further back from the stage. One of flamenco’s trademarks is the rhythmic stomping. And being that close to the stage, I could see the dust swirling around. Every barrette or flower lost from a dancers’ hair became a potential projectile to the face! And when it comes to dance, I believe there is such a thing as “too close to the stage.” Flamenco is such a full bodied dance, I was just too close to see the full picture. I felt so zoomed in, I could only see the footwork, or the hand movements, or the facial expressions. Never more than one at a time. But I love flamenco, and I would happily go again.

Seville, Spain: From Maria Luisa Park to Santa Cruz

The Maria Luisa Park area is a great place to start exploring Seville. Easily accessible by bus, the park is centrally located and within walking distance of other attractions in the area. As you are taking in the serenity of the park, be mindful of where you step! Horse drawn carriages frequent the area, and consequently, there are fresh surprises along some of the paths.

On the top of my list, the Plaza de Espana, which can be reached by walking through the Maria Luisa Park.

The Plaza de Espana was built for the Ibero-American Exhibition World Fair hosted by Spain in 1929. The plaza features an extensive, brick building encircling the plaza, with a lake in the center. Along the exterior of the building, the wall is broken up into 48 distinct sections of tiling and benches. Each of these 48 sections represent the provinces that make up Spain. The colorful tile work illustrates scenes depicting the province’s history.

In addition to the 1929 Exhibition and the housing of government offices, the plaza has also been the location of several films. You may recognize the distinct architecture of the plaza from scenes in Lawrence of Arabia and Star Wars: The Clone Wars.

While in the plaza, I did come across vendors selling all sorts of souvenirs: fans, castanets, drums. I also saw a few fellow tourists approached by Gypsy women, offering a small branch of rosemary or heather. It is important to note that this plant offering is NOT free! A lady in the plaza, not too far from me, learned this the hard way. A young woman, carrying a handful of leafy plant, offered the older woman some “lucky” heather. As the older woman took hold of the heather, the younger woman held on to the older woman’s hand. Leaning in, the younger woman was insisting on money in return for the lucky plant. Fortunately, this woman was able to free her hand from the younger woman and her lucky heather.

From the Plaza de Espana, it is about a 15 minute walk to the Real Alcazar, the royal palace in Seville. If you walk along the walls of the palace, through the Murillo Gardens, you will pass by the Monument to Christopher Columbus. The Columbus monument consists of two white pillars, a miniature rendering of one of Columbus’s three ships used to cross the Atlantic, and topped with a lion. Also towards the top of the monument, the date of Columbus’s landing in the Americas is engraved. Originally a part of the Real Alcazar, the gardens were donated to the city of Seville for public use. The gardens are named after the Spanish painter Bartolome Murillo, whose works can be found on display at El Prado in Madrid.

Shortly after passing the Columbus monument, turn left, along the Calle Antonio el Balarin to enter the Jewish Quarter. Also known as Santa Cruz, this picturesque and inviting neighborhood has a dark history. In 1492, following the Alhambra Decree, the Jewish population was ordered to be expelled from Spain. Residents were told to either convert to Catholicism or leave the country. The neighborhood subsequently fell into decline until an urban revitalization project in the 1800s.

The streets are very narrow, but with the tall buildings on either side, it has the added appeal of blocking the intense Spanish sun from pedestrians.