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New Orleans: French Quarter

March 8, 2017June 9, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment New Orleans, Travel, US beignet, Bourbon Street, Cafe Du Monde, Cajun, French Market, French Quarter, Jackson Square, New Orleans, Riverwalk, St Louis Cathedral

Welcome to New Orleans’s French Quarter; infamous for its ruckus parties, haunted buildings, and Creole and Cajun cuisine.

The French Quarter is a 7 x 13 block neighborhood, with the streets of Canal, Rampart, and Esplanade making up the defining boundaries of the Quarter. The fourth boundary side runs along the Mississippi River.

In 1706, the land along a particularly sharp bend in the Mississippi River was laid claim to by two French-Canadian brothers, Iberville and Bienville. But it was not until 1718, when Bienville returned to the land, charged with raising a settlement by the Regent of France, that a settlement began to take shape. The town was named La Nouvelle-Orleans, in honor of the Regent, Duke d’Orleans.

The French Quarter changed hands many times during its history, from French to Spanish, back to French, before being sold to the US in the Louisiana Purchase. An extra special celebration can be expected in 2018, when the French Quarter celebrates its tri-centennial.

In addition to the settlers of the Quarter, the Acadians also came down the Mississippi River; prompted to escape persecution in French Canada and displacement by British expansion, the Acadians are today known as “Cajuns.” Choosing to settle in areas outside of the new settlement, they relied on their skills as hunters and trappers. The name Cajun is believed to have come from a misunderstanding in the annunciation of “acadians,” consequently becoming “a cajun.”

The French Quarter suffered two major fires in 1788 and 1794. After the last one, in 1794, residences were required to have a fountain in their courtyards that would be filled with water at all times. The architectural style of the second fire’s reconstruction is what defines the area to this day; brick townhouses with balconies and galleries, decorative iron rails, and courtyards with fountains. It is a decidedly Spanish style, even though the neighborhood is referred to as the “French Quarter.”

For a more in-depth look at the history of New Orleans and the French Quarter, a museum on Royal Street, the Historic New Orleans Museum, offers a permanent exhibit of the city’s history, from founding to present-day. The museum is free, but docent guided tours are also offered for $5.

If you are looking for tours with supernatural or paranormal elements, you’ve come to the right city. New Orleans boasts that it is the most haunted city in the US (though, Savannah would disagree). Tour topics range from voodoo to vampires to history, with a side of ghost stories and haunted dwellings. A couple of restaurants in the Quarter even claim to have spirits wandering around.

St Louis Cathedral, the oldest running cathedral in the US, is also one of the most recognized landmarks in New Orleans. In front of the cathedral is a small park, Jackson Square, surrounded by tall wrought iron gates, with a statue of Andrew Jackson at the center. Part of the original settlement area, some of the oldest apartments of the Quarter still stand on either side of the square. While their initial use was for government offices, most are now primarily store fronts.

Cafe Du Monde, the famed place for beignets and chicory coffee, is easily within view of Jackson Square, riverside. While the cafe is 24/7, there are often lines, both for a table and at the pedestrian to-go window. Remember to bring cash for your beignets and coffee, credit cards are not accepted. (There is an atm nearby though.)

Bourbon St, a few blocks over from the cathedral, is the bar lined street with colorful characters everyone is always talking about. During busy times, like sporting events and parade season, the street can get pretty packed and the atmosphere a little aromatic. But during the “off-season,” you can take a more leisurely stroll down the French Quarter’s “sin city” street.

The French Market is located a few blocks up from Cafe Du Monde. The Market hosts an array of local handicrafts and local cuisine samplers. It is a fun place for souvenirs, but some of the items like the masquerade masks are mass produced.

On a nice day, the Riverwalk, a park along the riverside of the Quarter, is a nice place for a stroll. Jazz and folk musicians typically can be found in this area, playing known and original pieces. And if you time it right, you can watch one of the local riverboats set sail for an afternoon cruise.

Fun fact: Tennessee Williams, a former resident of the Quarter, wrote the celebrated Streetcar Named Desire, based off the trolleys that ran through the city.

New Orleans: The Garden District

February 23, 2017June 9, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment New Orleans, Travel, US Garden District, Gothic Revival, Greek Revival, Haint Blue, Italianate, Lafayette Cemetery #1, Livaudais Plantation, New Orleans, New Orleans Garden District, Queen Anne

In honor of Mardi Gras next week, I’ve decided to segue from my Spain trip, to talk about my recent trip to New Orleans’ Garden District!

Southwest of the French Quarter, I spent a Saturday morning walking around the Garden District. Cute, little boutique shops mixed with trendy coffee shops and dive bars dot the boundary streets along St Charles Ave and Magazine St.

Originally the Livaudais Plantation, the land was sold off and eventually broken out into blocks of generous lots for homes; the Garden District was born. Today, you can still see some of the grand sized lots, complete with lavish gardens and cast iron fences, as well as smaller lots with equally charming homes.

While strolling down the sidewalks, keep an eye out for uneven surfaces. Some of the walkways are missing bricks or chunks of cement; or have sections sticking up at 45 degree angles, pushed up from expanding tree roots determined to retake the block.

Some of the celebrities who have owned or currently own homes in the Garden District include Sandra Bullock, John Goodman, and Anne Rice.

Architectural styles within the Garden District range from Greek Revival to Victorian. Greek Revival is primarily characterized by square or rounded columns of Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian styles, attached porches, and trim around doors. A number of the styles you will see in the Garden District will fall under the larger category of Victorian, with the subset styles consisting of Italianate, Queen Anne, and Gothic Revival.

The Italianate style can be seen in homes with a flat roof, overhanging eaves, cornices, and ornate brackets underneath.

Queen Anne, unlike Italianate, has unusual roof shapes, bay windows, and partial or full porches on the first level.

Gothic Revival, on the other hand, is characterized by steep roofs, windows with pointed arches, and decorative trim under the roof edges.

If you look closely, some of the homes have sky-blue painted ceilings on their attached porches. The color is often referred to as “haint blue” and can be traced to Gullah legends of “haints,” or evil spirits. The Gullah believe that these spirits could not cross water; so, the sky blue color was painted on the frames of windows and doors to mimic water and deter haints from entering the home. However, in the Garden District, instead of blue framing, you will find the ceilings of the exterior porches are blue. During the time of the Yellow Fever outbreaks, the haint blue was believed to keep death away. People had no idea what was causing the illness, and some attributed it to evil spirits. We now know that mosquitoes were the cause of the outbreaks, and oddly enough, the paint would have helped deter the mosquitoes. However, it was what was in the paint, more so than the blue color itself, that kept away the yellow fever carrying mosquitoes. The lye in the paint was acting as a repellent.

Also within the Garden District is Lafayette Cemetery #1, on Washington Avenue, which is the oldest of the seven New Orleans operated cemeteries. Here, you will find a mixture of wall vaults along the entrance side of the cemetery, and eye-catching, above ground family tombs. The oldest of the tombs are believed to be two stone and brick tombs, side by side, along the main path. These two tombs are thought to be from the days when the Livaudais Plantation still existed.

Not just for the dead, the Lafayette Cemetery #1 has also been used as a filming location for movies, like Double Jeopardy and Dracula 2000, as well as music videos. However, the cemetery closes at 3 pm, so don’t plan on wandering through the graves at night!

On the other side of Washington Avenue, Commander’s Palace sits with its brightly decorated teal awnings. You can’t miss it! While strolling through the Garden District, a local told me about the restaurant’s 25 cent margaritas, and now being across the street from it, I decided to stop by. I saunter in, jeans and t-shirt, and immediately notice everyone at the host station is dressed in smart, business attire. Looking around at the seated patrons confirmed my suspicion.. I was severely under-dressed. But the host staff was super nice, all smiles, even after I told them that I did not have a reservation. I mentioned the drink special I heard about, hoping there was a bar in the corner, where I would be less conspicuous. But, alas, the special was only for Monday through Friday (with purchase of an entree). And admittedly, I was filled with a sense of relief as I thanked the host for the information and made a hasty retreat. I probably could have gotten away with my dark wash jeans, but I would much rather enjoy my dining experience without obsessively wondering if anyone is staring at my pants. Next time I will have to remember to pack something more appropriate.

On the other side of the Garden District, and a handful of streets outside of its official boundaries, is a lunch cafe called Reconcile Cafe. Only open for lunch, they offer an array of quintessential New Orleans food (Yum!). But what I really like about this place is that it is a training cafe for local youth in the culinary arts, and the proceeds go back into the training program and support the community. No business attire required!

For venturing beyond the Garden District, a trolley line, running down St Charles avenue, connects the Garden District to the French Quarter, Central Business District, and Audubon Zoo. A fun and affordable way to get around the city, the trolley cars add to the historic appeal.

Gibraltar: Pillar of Hercules and St Michael’s Cave

February 15, 2017June 9, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Gibraltar, Travel Barbary macaques, Gibraltar, Pillars of Hercules, Rock of Gibraltar, St Michael's Cave

Before you even enter Gibraltar, you can see its trademark landmark; the Rock of Gibraltar. Also referred to as one of the pillars of Hercules, its mate is across the Strait of Gibraltar. Both the Jebel Musa in Morocco and Mount Hacho in Ceuta have been mentioned as the other peak of the fabled pillars.

According to legend, one of Hercules’ 12 labors involved traveling westward to capture cattle from Geryon, a three bodied giant. On his way, Hercules came to a mountain, directly in his path. Rather than climbing the mountain, he split it in half to get through. These two halves of the mountain peak make up the fabled pillars of Hercules.

Crossing the border into Gibraltar on foot, you go through two immigration stations, back to back. You exit Spain and Spain’s immigration building, and walk through a sort of no man’s land, arriving at the immigration entry station for Gibraltar.

Officially on Gibraltarian soil, one of my many stops on the itinerary for the day was St Michael’s Cave.

St Michael’s Cave, located within the Rock of Gibraltar, was thought to have been endlessly deep in ancient times. It was once believed that the cave led down to a passageway connecting Europe with Africa.

Passageways aside, getting up to the caves is an adventure in itself. The road leading up the mountain is barely wide enough to accommodate the two way traffic. Add in a couple dozen backpackers along the edge of a tightly winding road, our driver expertly delivered us to the entrance of the caves.

Once inside, the view from the top platform is quite awe inspiring. The depths of the cave are amazing and I can see why it is such a renowned place. The front portion of the cave is also available for concerts. Due to the spectacular acoustics, the cave makes an ideal, and unusual, venue. Mood lighting intermittently strobes from the classic warm white, to red, to purple, blue, and green. It definitely feels like a concert could start at any moment.

During World War II, the cave was setup so that it could be used as a hospital. Tunnels, known as the Great Siege Tunnels, which were started in 1782 to aid defense in The Great Siege, were also advanced further into the sides of the Rock for strategic military posts.

Outside the cave, and along some of the lower terraced levels, the Barbary macaques can be found.

Commonly referred to as Barbary apes, the Barbary macaques, like the ravens of the Tower of London, share a similar legend about the animals leaving a specific location. In the Gibraltar specific legend, if the macaques were to ever leave the Rock of Gibraltar, Britain would fall. So, the macaques live a rather posh life, with a cozy habitat and regular, park sponsored feedings.

Signs are posted around the area, warning tourists against feeding the macaques, or attempting to pet them. My tour guide went a step further, and advised the group not to wear or hold anything shiny. Shiny objects will attract their attention, and they may remove it from your possession. So, car keys, watches, food items, even bags are better left in your vehicle, if possible.

Based on the macaque activity, our group must have arrived after lunch, as there were only two around, and one was napping under a tree. One did come out to the railing to say hello though. I think it knew I didn’t want to be too close to it, because as I moved away, it also moved along the railing towards me. I took a step back, it took a step forward. It was probably trying to get away from all the flashing cameras; I just happened to be trying to get away from it.

In addition to the barbary macaques, several permanent residences are perched along the mountain side. And while the tourists who visit find the macaques’ presence whimsical, the locals will tell you another tale. Apparently, the macaques will wander in to residences, taking food and rummaging through items left out. Due to the legend surrounding the macaques, they are protected, and there is not much the harassed locals can do to get rid of them.

Cordoba, Spain: La Mezquita

February 8, 2017June 9, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Cordoba, Spain, Travel Cathedral de Cordoba, Cordoba Bridge, Cordoba Spain, La Mezquita

Two hours from Seville, Cordoba makes for a great day trip. Upon arrival, I met up with a local guide, for a tour of Cordoba’s popular attraction, La Mezquita.

While making our way along the riverside, up to the mosque-cathedral, my guide pointed out the Old Roman bridge just ahead of us. The bridge, made up of 16 arches, was originally constructed in the 1st century AD by the Romans. No auto traffic is allowed on this bridge, so it is strictly a pedestrian walkway. Since its initial installation, the bridge has undergone several renovations, with the most recent in 2009. My guide also mentioned that it was a lovely bridge before the more recent renovation, and that the restoration effort was done too well. The bridge is too perfect, and as such, a lot of the charm was lost.

Walking through the gates of La Mezquita, you find yourself in an expansive courtyard. In addition to the orange and palm trees around the enclosed space, there are mini trenches directing water to the network of trees. Be careful where you step; at best, you will have a wet shoe, or worse, you could hurt yourself falling onto the cobbled stone floor. During the time when La Mezquita was a mosque, the water would have been used for the purpose of pre-prayer purification.

Inside La Mezquita, you are protected from the sun, and the cooler temperature in the building is an immediate relief… That is, until the humidity starts to overpower the initial feeling of cool.

From the outside, La Mezquita has the appearance of a mosque, turned cathedral. However, the mosque was built over the remains of the Basilica of Saint Vincent. Believed to have been constructed in the 6th century, the basilica still bears some of the original inscriptions.

The first open area of La Mezquita was the original mosque built on this site in the 8th century. The space is dominated by red and white striped, decorative arches and wooden ceilings. The columns the arches stand on make up a collection of re-purposed columns of varying materials and styles.

The mosque was later expanded in the 9th century, and again in the 10th century. Additional double arches, skylights, and crossed arches mark the continued expansion.

The Mihrab, towards the back of the arched hall, is the focal point and prayer corner of the mosque. The area around the Mihrab is more elaborately decorated, indicating the importance of this section. Gold mosaics are used around the arch of the doorway, shaped into decorative patterns. Verses from the Quran are also inlaid in gold around the borders. As light reflects off the mosaics, the doorway glows. Around the glow, the representation of the “tree of life” sprawls along the wall in intricate patterns.

In the 13th century, the Cathedral of Cordoba took the place of the mosque. The addition of the main chapel was one of the bigger structural changes commissioned. Over the 200 years it took to complete, the styles used in construction varied. Two of the styles, Gothic and Renaissance, incorporated buttresses, trace vaults, and oval vaults.

Stories claim King Carlos I, gave his consent to build the main chapel in the cathedral, but was later dismayed by construction. In order for the main chapel to go in, the roof had to be removed from that section of the church. During a visit to the cathedral, Carlos I is said to have lamented destroying such a beautiful, perfectly functional church.

Seville, Spain: Cathedral by Day, Flamenco by Night

February 1, 2017June 9, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Seville, Spain, Travel Aragon, Castile, Christopher Columbus tomb, flamenco, Giralda Tower, Granada, Leon, Navarre, Puerta del Perdon, Seville Cathedral

Continuing through the Santa Cruz neighborhood, I made my way towards the Seville Cathedral and Giralda Tower.

Seville Cathedral, also known as St Mary of the See, is a UNESCO heritage site and the largest Gothic Cathedral in the world. Like many of the cathedrals I have visited on the Iberian Penninsula, the Seville Cathedral was originally a mosque. Remnants of the old mosque, Almohad, can still be seen in the architecture of the cathedral. The Giralda minaret and Puerta del Perdon are examples of the original structure.

The Giralda Tower, a brick, minaret structure with intricate patterns, is accessible with your ticket to the Cathedral. A series of ramps lead to the top of the tower, with a spectacular view of the surrounding cathedral and Seville.

After the reconquest of Seville, a bell tower was added to the top of the mosque’s minaret. The embellishment was a way of announcing the building’s new purpose, as a Catholic cathedral. Then, in the 16th century, a bronze statue, representing Faith, was added to the top of the tower. The Faith statue holds a cross and a shield; the shield acts as a weather vane, blowing with the wind.

Puerta del Perdon, or Door of Forgiveness, is mentioned above as one of the original gates of the old mosque. The intricate details of the horseshoe-like arch echo the identity of the original structure, while the sculptures and bells signify its re-purposing.

Inside the Seville Cathedral, Christopher Columbus’s tomb is located by the Door of the Prince. Mirroring his life, Columbus’s remains traveled quite a bit. Columbus was initially buried in Spain, then his remains were sent to Hispaniola. After the French took control of Hispaniola, Columbus’s remains were moved to Cuba, and later, back to Spain. After a bit of controversy over the authenticity of the remains, DNA tests were performed. Experts were able to confirm that the remains are of Columbus. The tomb symbolically represents the four regions of Spain, with a pallbearer from each region. The two pallbearers in the front represent Castile and Leon, and the two at the rear are Aragon and Navarre. Castile’s robes are decorated with the three tower castle from the Castile Coat of Arms. Leon is garbed in a lion emblazoned robe, while holding a spear with a cross, piercing a pomegranate. The Spanish word for pomegranate is “granada,” and the spear symbolizes Leon’s conquest of Granada. Navarre’s Coat of Arms includes chains, which are used to symbolize Navarre’s pallbearer. And, lastly, Aragon’s robes are patterned with bats (though there is some argument as to whether or not they are actually winged dragons or swallows).

The Andalusian region that Seville resides in is also known for its flamenco origins. So, that evening, I attended a flamenco show not too far from my hotel. Flamenco is primarily characterized by song, dance, and guitar. Emotionally charged, the dancers use foot stomping, hand snaps and claps, and animated hand and arm gestures to express themselves. Surprisingly, I got a great seat, front and center. However, in the future, I think I will pick a seat a further back from the stage. One of flamenco’s trademarks is the rhythmic stomping. And being that close to the stage, I could see the dust swirling around. Every barrette or flower lost from a dancers’ hair became a potential projectile to the face! And when it comes to dance, I believe there is such a thing as “too close to the stage.” Flamenco is such a full bodied dance, I was just too close to see the full picture. I felt so zoomed in, I could only see the footwork, or the hand movements, or the facial expressions. Never more than one at a time. But I love flamenco, and I would happily go again.

Seville, Spain: From Maria Luisa Park to Santa Cruz

January 25, 2017June 9, 2017 Elizabeth 1 Comment Seville, Spain, Travel Christopher Columbus, Maria Luisa Park, Murillo Gardens, Plaza de Espana, Santa Cruz

The Maria Luisa Park area is a great place to start exploring Seville. Easily accessible by bus, the park is centrally located and within walking distance of other attractions in the area. As you are taking in the serenity of the park, be mindful of where you step! Horse drawn carriages frequent the area, and consequently, there are fresh surprises along some of the paths.

On the top of my list, the Plaza de Espana, which can be reached by walking through the Maria Luisa Park.

The Plaza de Espana was built for the Ibero-American Exhibition World Fair hosted by Spain in 1929. The plaza features an extensive, brick building encircling the plaza, with a lake in the center. Along the exterior of the building, the wall is broken up into 48 distinct sections of tiling and benches. Each of these 48 sections represent the provinces that make up Spain. The colorful tile work illustrates scenes depicting the province’s history.

In addition to the 1929 Exhibition and the housing of government offices, the plaza has also been the location of several films. You may recognize the distinct architecture of the plaza from scenes in Lawrence of Arabia and Star Wars: The Clone Wars.

While in the plaza, I did come across vendors selling all sorts of souvenirs: fans, castanets, drums. I also saw a few fellow tourists approached by Gypsy women, offering a small branch of rosemary or heather. It is important to note that this plant offering is NOT free! A lady in the plaza, not too far from me, learned this the hard way. A young woman, carrying a handful of leafy plant, offered the older woman some “lucky” heather. As the older woman took hold of the heather, the younger woman held on to the older woman’s hand. Leaning in, the younger woman was insisting on money in return for the lucky plant. Fortunately, this woman was able to free her hand from the younger woman and her lucky heather.

From the Plaza de Espana, it is about a 15 minute walk to the Real Alcazar, the royal palace in Seville. If you walk along the walls of the palace, through the Murillo Gardens, you will pass by the Monument to Christopher Columbus. The Columbus monument consists of two white pillars, a miniature rendering of one of Columbus’s three ships used to cross the Atlantic, and topped with a lion. Also towards the top of the monument, the date of Columbus’s landing in the Americas is engraved. Originally a part of the Real Alcazar, the gardens were donated to the city of Seville for public use. The gardens are named after the Spanish painter Bartolome Murillo, whose works can be found on display at El Prado in Madrid.

Shortly after passing the Columbus monument, turn left, along the Calle Antonio el Balarin to enter the Jewish Quarter. Also known as Santa Cruz, this picturesque and inviting neighborhood has a dark history. In 1492, following the Alhambra Decree, the Jewish population was ordered to be expelled from Spain. Residents were told to either convert to Catholicism or leave the country. The neighborhood subsequently fell into decline until an urban revitalization project in the 1800s.

The streets are very narrow, but with the tall buildings on either side, it has the added appeal of blocking the intense Spanish sun from pedestrians.

Sintra, Portugal: Hilltop Palaces and Pillow Pastries

January 4, 2017June 9, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Portugal, Sintra, Travel Coat of Arms Tower Sintra, Magpies Room Sintra, Moorish Castle Sintra, Palace of Sintra, Pillow pastry, Sintra Palace, Sintra Portugal, Swans Hall Sintra, travesseiro

The allures of Sintra’s palaces, castles, mountain trails and vistas, and brightly painted towns are only about 30 minutes outside of Lisbon. So, on my final day in Lisbon, I booked a day trip out to Sintra. The booking included pickup and return transportation, but you can also get to Sintra by train.

Arriving at the town center of Sintra, you can see the Moorish Castle, Castelo dos Mouros, tucked into the hilltop. Dating back to the 10th century, the castle was established by the Moors to help fortify their position along the conquered Iberian Peninsula. Some more recent excavations along the Moorish Castle have even yielded artifacts belonging to the Bronze Age period (1200 BC). So, it would seem the Moors weren’t the only ones to see the strategic advantage of the location.

If you have the time and an adventurous heart, there are three mapped hiking trails leading up to the Moorish Castle. The routes are ranked from easy to difficult, with the easiest route being the Percursio de Santa Maria. Depending on where you catch the Santa Maria, it will take you about an hour or less to arrive at the top. One of the downsides of being a part of a guided tour is that you are limited in the amount of time you have to explore; so hiking was out for me.

The Palace of Sintra, also built by the Moors, became a Portuguese royal residence after the Portuguese Reconquest. Since then, it has undergone several renovations. Glazed tiles cover the walls and inlay wood accents can be found all around the palace. Some of my favorite rooms included the Swans Hall, Magpies Room, and the Coat of Arms Tower.

Swans Hall, also referred to as the Prince’s Room and the Great Hall, is so named for the ceiling of 27 painted swans in wooden frames. Each of the swans has an upside down golden crown around its neck. According to my guide, the ceiling was painted to honor the Princess Isabella, who loved swans. Isabella was the only daughter of King Joao and Queen Philippa, and much beloved. Later in life, Isabella was married to a foreign Duke (Philip, Duke of Burgundy). Her parents were so sad to see her go, they painted Isabella’s favorite bird on the ceiling of the great hall. There is one swan for each year of her unwed life, 27 total. Upon my return home, I looked up the story of Isabella and the Swans Hall. However, I have not been able to find a historical record of this tale. Additionally, it is recorded that Isabella was married at 30, not 27. So, consider this a fun, historical fiction to explain the presence of the swans on the ceiling.

The Magpie Room’s primary function was to receive the royalty’s distinguished guests. Prominent features of the room include a ceiling painted with magpies, holding banners with the words “Por Bem” (For the Good), and fantastic glazed tiles along the walls. I couldn’t help but think that “For the Good” seemed like an odd thing for a magpie to say. Especially since I’ve only ever heard them decried as a nuisance and inclined to carry away shiny objects. The unofficial story is that the King of Portugal had been caught kissing a lady in waiting, which, as you can imagine, created a great deal of gossip. The king then had a magpie painted on the ceiling for each gossiping lady in his court.

From the Coat of Arms Tower, looking out the windows faced west, you can see the Atlantic Ocean. A large, square shaped room, the Coat of Arms includes family crests from the influential noble families of the kingdom of Portugal. Above those crests, a row of Stags creates a division between the family crests and the coat of arms for each of the children of King Manuel I and Queen Maria. On the dome of the ceiling is the crest of Portugal, with a dragon like creature sitting on top of a crown. Along the walls are murals of hunting scenes in blue tiles called azulejos.

Along the backside of the palace is a large, banquet-sized, ready kitchen. The two white, conical chimney stacks from the kitchen give the palace a recognizable landmark. Standing in the kitchen, looking up the chimney, you can see the sky. I visited the palace on a nice, clear day. But, I imagine when it rains outside, it also rains in the kitchen. Though, this may be more of a modern day problem. When the palace was in use, the kitchens likely always had a fire going. So the continual heat going up the stack may also have served to keep a lot of the water out.

Outside the palace, the surrounding town is full of restaurants and small shops. Some of the streets are too narrow for a car to get through; some were challenging enough with two-way pedestrian traffic. From one of the bakeries, I tried my first travesseiro pastry. Translated into “pillow,” the pastry can best be described as an almond puff type pastry. As you can imagine by the name, it was a nice light, flaky pastry. I was covered in sugar by the time I finished eating it, and I’m glad I only got one. If I had ordered a box of them, I would have surely eaten them all on the bus before I made it back to Lisbon.

Lisbon, Portugal: Alfama and the Age of Discovery

December 28, 2016June 9, 2017 Elizabeth 1 Comment Lisbon, Portugal, Travel Age of Discovery monument, Alfama, Belem, Belem Tower, Church of Saint Anthony, Henry the Navigator, Lisbon, Padrao dos Descobrimentos, Se Cathedral

Hoping to avoid some of the crowds, I arrived in the Alfama neighborhood in the early morning. Chairs at open air cafes were still stacked. Local grocery shops were just opening their doors and setting up sidewalk displays along cobblestone streets, narrow and steep in places.

The Alfama is the oldest neighborhood in Lisbon. Since its initial settlement, the neighborhood has changed hands several times. The Romans, Visigoths, and Moors all called Lisbon home at one point. In modern times, the Alfama is primarily characterized as a neighborhood of working class fishermen.

One of the highlights of the Alfama is the Se Cathedral de Lisboa. Originally the site of a mosque, a cathedral was built in its place after the Moors were conquered by Portuguese King Alfonso I in the 12th century.

By starting from the Se Cathedral and walking downwards, you can avoid huffing and puffing up the more steeply inclined sections. Vendors line up along the Cruzes da Se, leading up to the Cathedral, poised and ready to sell passers-by postcards, bracelets, and other souvenirs. And like in most European cities, keep an eye out for motorbikes when crossing streets!

Across the street from the Se Cathedral is the Church of Saint Anthony. Born in Lisbon, Saint Anthony is the Patron Saint of Lost Things. You may be familiar with the rhyme:

Tony Tony Turn Around
What was lost must be found

While in Lisbon, I heard several stories involving the Saint’s abilities. In addition to praying for the return of lost items, you can also pray to Saint Anthony for a romantic partner. Or, if you do not like your current partner, you can pray for a better partner! A statue of the Saint can be found outside of the Church of Saint Anthony holding a book. If you toss a coin and it lands on the book, it is said that your request will be granted.

The guidebook I picked up for Lisbon described the streets of the Alfama as pleasantly winding. If you know where you are going or you aren’t terribly concerned with time, the streets of the Alfama are quite picturesque. But, if you get turned about easily, it feels more like a labyrinth of never ending side streets.

Tram 28 is a great option for getting up to the Alfama.

After working my way down from the Alfama, I headed down to the Belem neighborhood. Along the river side, the Age of Discovery monument and Belem Tower are within walking distance of each other.

The Age of Discovery (Padrão dos Descobrimentos) monument honors Henry the Navigator and other key Portuguese players from the 15th and 16th centuries. While not the original monument, the one currently standing was constructed in 1960. Its inauguration marked the 500th year anniversary of Henry the Navigator’s death.

I was very excited to see the monument after reading about the design. The monument, sitting on the banks of the Tagus River, was designed like the prow of a ship. At the front is Henry the Navigator. He holds in his hands a ship, cradled like he is about to launch it forth towards the Atlantic and other great discoveries. Behind him are a procession of people who made the age of discovery for Portugal possible; Saints, explorers, like Vasco de Gama and Ferdinand Magellan, map makers, nobility, and clergy.

Unfortunately, when I went to visit the monument, it was being cleaned, restored, and consequently obscured by scaffolding. I could only just make out Henry and his ship.

The square surrounding the monument is decorated with a tiled compass rose. A gift to Portugal from the Republic of South Africa, the center of the compass rose is a world map, illustrating Portuguese ships and historic dates.

About a 15 minute walk away from the Age of Discovery is the Belem Tower, also situated on the bank of the Tagus River. From the Tower, you have a view of the river and the Atlantic Ocean. Built in the early 1500s by Manuel I, the Tower is now a UNESCO heritage site. The Tower is defined by a medieval style tower (Donjon) and terraces around the exterior. Its original purpose was to protect Lisbon from threats coming in by way of the Atlantic Ocean. The Old Tower, on the opposite bank of the river, was part of the defensive strategy for Lisbon. Together, the Belem and Old Towers could volley shots when an adversary sailed in.

After all that walking around, it may be useful to note that there are restroom facilities near the Belem Tower. If you are standing in front of the Tower, they are just to the right. But, be prepared to pay! When I was there, a line was formed outside the ladies’ room (typical) and a woman was at the front taking payment and passing out tickets. If I recall correctly, it was 50 cents (in Euros), AND I got a souvenir ticket stub! 😉

Lisbon, Portugal: Mosaic Sidewalks, Architecture, and Cod

December 21, 2016June 9, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment Lisbon, Portugal, Travel Arco da Rua Augusta, bacalhau, Lisbon, Lisbon aqueduct, port, Portugal, Praca do Comercio, tile

My trip from airport to hotel was helmed by a very friendly Lisbon native, who took great pride in pointing out attractions and noteworthy locations. I couldn’t help up notice how much Lisbon reminded me of another popular destination. From the hilly streets and trams to the 25 de Abril suspension bridge, the first impression similarities between Lisbon and San Francisco are quite intriguing.

The hotel I was staying at was very close to the Marques de Pombal metro station, along the Avenida da Liberdade. Sprawling works of mosaic tile art make up the sidewalks along the avenue. The arrangements of white and black tiles create lovely, eye catching patterns. Continuing down towards the Rossi Square area, the tile work covers the entire square and mimics the rippling of ocean waves. While lovely, the tiles seem to cause some grief for the locals. And on my walk to dinner one night, I quickly discovered why. They are SLIPPERY when wet! One minute, I was walking along, and the next moment, I was unexpectedly gliding forward. I made it to my destination without any meet-and-greets with the sidewalk, but I was very anxious about where I stepped after that..

Continuing to the downtown area of Lisbon, I reached the Praca do Comercio (Commerical Square), looking out to the Tagus River. The square was originally the site of the Ribeira Palace, which was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. Owing to its proximity to the river, the square was once a major thoroughfare for the shipment of goods. With a statue of King Jose I in the center of the square, the area is surrounded on three sides by golden-yellow colored buildings. Directly behind the statue is the Arco da Rua Augusta. The Arc represents the rebirth of Lisbon after the destruction of the city in 1755 by earthquake, fire, and tsunami. On the top of the arch are the depictions of Glory, Valor, and Ingenuity; Glory, in the center, is holding out crowns to Valor and Ingenuity.

If you wander around the downtown area, you’ll notice the buildings are pretty uniform. The 1755 earthquake, followed by several fires and a tsunami, destroyed a great deal of the city. With the city in ruins, there was an immediate need to rebuild quickly and cost effectively. Marques de Pombal was charged with redesigning the city of Lisbon. Prefabrication of buildings became very popular during the reconstruction. Consequently, the architectural features of the buildings in downtown Lisbon are nearly identical. Additionally, the pre-earthquake avenues were a winding and narrow collection of roads. In the reconstruction, they were replaced with the wide avenues you can see today.

My first night in Lisbon, I tried the bacalhau, which is salted cod fish. Bacalhau, dried and salted, is a popular staple in Portuguese dishes. As it was explained to me, the dried fish is rehydrated in order to be prepped and cooked. I love seafood and I was really looking forward to trying my very first bacalhau dish. Unfortunately, it did not go over as well as I had hoped. I ordered the bacalhau at my hotel restaurant, which I later realized was a mistake. The restaurant’s primary function was for convenience, not necessarily for taste and experience. So, I should not have been surprised when my fish came out rather tough and dry around the edges. The second night, I had more success with a seafood restaurant a few blocks away from my hotel. I ordered the Prawns a Bras, which was a delicious, generous sized portion. I just didn’t have the nerve to sample any more bacalhau.

If cod fish is not to your liking, there is plenty of Port wine to sample. Portugal is home to the sweet wine, Port, offering up a collection of styles (white, rose, tawny, ruby) and age ranges. Some restaurants in Lisbon even offer a complimentary after-dinner Port. I sampled my first white Port, but the tawny was definitely my favorite. If you are fairly new to wine (or an expert), there are plenty of wine bars in Lisbon prepared to answer all your Port questions, and offer a healthy pour!

On a side note: If you find yourself driving around the Alcantara valley, keep an eye out for the aqueduct arches! Constructed in the mid 1700s, the Aqueduct survived the 1755 earthquake and continued to supply the city of Lisbon with water until 1967. The Aqueduct holds the world record for the highest stone arch, measuring at 65.29 m high and 28.86 m wide (or 214 feet high and 94.6 feet wide)!

London, England: Buckingham Palace and the Horse Guards

December 14, 2016June 9, 2017 Elizabeth 0 Comment London, Travel, UK Admiralty Arch, Buckingham Palace, Changing of the Guards, Horse Guard, Nelson's Column, Queen's Gallery, Trafalgar Square

The Changing of the Guards at Buckingham Palace was on my list of must-see sights during my short time in London. Upon arriving, I learned that during the summer months, the Changing of the Guards takes place daily. But, in the fall season, it takes place every other day. Since it was late September, I fell into the fall season. Fortunately, the day I picked to head to Buckingham was a ceremony day!

The ceremony starts at 11 am, but the crowds gather well before that. In addition to the frequency of the ceremony, I also learned that it is weather dependent. It was lightly drizzling the morning I went to Buckingham, but so far, that had proven to be typical London weather. I thought for sure that only inclement weather, like a thunderstorm, would cancel the changing. I was wrong. Apparently, drizzling rain falls under the poor weather category. So, there was no ceremonial Changing of the Guards. But, there was a change of shifts and I did get to see the Old Guard marching back to the Wellington barracks. If nothing else, I can say I saw movement at the palace.

I met up with a local guide a few days later for a walking tour that started near Trafalgar Square and ended in front of Buckingham Palace. The group was very small, just five of us total, which was a really nice surprise. With such a small group, we were able to navigate the crowds easily and our questions were never drowned out by the throngs of people vying for attention. Oddly enough, it was a pretty quiet group. So, between directing the group’s attention to points of interest, the guide and I ended up chatting away. We actually covered a wide range of historical topics, including the British Royal family throughout the centuries, Winston Churchill, and Britain during WWII. And I was delighted to get a Londoner’s insight on the Brexit referendum vote, which had taken place a few months prior. We had a really fun conversation!

We passed through Trafalgar Square, stopping at the monument to Admiral Nelson, Nelson’s Column, and the four lions guarding the base. The Column honors Admiral Nelson’s naval victory in the Battle of Trafalgar. The lions represent four of Nelson’s victories, including Trafalgar. The previous Sunday afternoon, I passed by the square and it was so packed, I couldn’t get a clear picture of the fountain or any of the monuments. But, during my walking tour, mid morning on a weekday, the crowds were much thinner and I was actually able to see the square.

Down the street from Trafalgar, we stopped at the Admiralty Arch, with its five arched gates. The arch’s central gate is closed and only opened for special occasions, like royal processions and the 2012 London-hosted Olympic Games. The Arch commemorates Queen Victoria, and the space inside was used for offices of the Navy. However, like many of the other older buildings of London, the Arch’s interior space has shifted in purpose many times since its construction in 1912. According to my guide, the building has been leased out to a hotel developer, to renovate the space into a luxury hotel, but no work has taken place yet.

From the Arch, we headed down to the Horse Guard Parade for Changing of the Guards. Yes, you read that right! There are two separate ceremonies, and this one is not to be confused with the Changing of the Guards at Buckingham Palace. If you miss the Changing of the Guards at Buckingham (like I did), you can still see the Changing of the Guards at the Horse Guards Parade. This ceremony takes place every day, rain or drizzle or shine!

At the Horse Guard Parade ground, the mounted Old Guard lines up outside the building, while the New Guard, with police escort, makes its way down The Mall. Upon arrival, the New Guard lines up opposite the Old Guard, staring across at each other. A small group of the mounted New Guards retreat into the building behind the parade, to relieve the Old Guard sentries. While the sentries are switching shifts, the rest of the mounted guard is locked in a pretty intense staring contest on the parade ground. I suppose it could be a very Zen like time of reflection for the waiting guard. You could spend the time making to-do lists in your head or practice some breathing exercises. Anything that involves remaining still and silent is probably fair game. Roughly fifteen minutes in, and just as you are mentally adding the last item to your shopping list, the Old Guard sentries rejoin the group. Complete, the Old Guard proceeds back up The Mall to their barracks, while the New Guard enters the Horse Guard building to begin their shift.

As we walked down the Mall towards Buckingham, we stopped briefly at the statue of Prince Frederick, the Duke of York. The second son of King George III, the Duke of York was highly praised for enacting structural reform to the British Army in his later years as Commander in Chief. The statue is perched on top of a 124 foot column. According to my guide, one alleged reason the Duke’s statue was placed on the column was to prevent people passing by from throwing things at the Duke. Depending on who you listen to, the funds to erect the statue came mostly from soldiers who donated, or were docked, a day’s wages. If the latter is true, then I could understand why there would be concerns about people throwing things at the statue!

Rounding the Queen Victoria memorial, we arrived at Buckingham Palace. The palace has been a royal residence since the late 1700s. Originally known as Buckingham House, it has undergone many renovations since its construction in the early 1700s. Tours of Buckingham are only offered in August and September, when the Queen is not in residence. So if you want to tour the State Rooms, plan a trip in August or September.

To the left of Buckingham Palace is the Queen’s Gallery. Originally a conservatory, the building was renovated by Queen Victoria into a private chapel. In 1940, the chapel was hit during an air raid and sat in ruins until it was re-purposed and renovated into the Gallery. Open to the public, the gallery displays art pieces from the Royal Collection. A multimedia tour is provided with your ticket to guide you through the gallery.