On my way out of Lisbon, en route to Seville, Spain, I decided to take the opportunity to see more of Portugal. Roughly 4.5 hours from Lisbon to Seville by car, I figured I could afford to meander a bit. So I picked a route along the coastline, and selected several stops to make in the Algarve area.
Leaving Lisbon, cork trees can be spotted all along both sides of the highway. If you are not sure what to look for, just keep an eye out for rust colored tree trunks. When the tree is harvested, the bark along the trunk of the tree is removed, exposing a red-ish under-bark. The bark takes several years to grow back, so trees do not undergo annual harvesting. The collected bark is then sent off for processing. One of the many final products of cork bark is the humble wine bottle cork.
Olive trees are also in abundance. A staple of the Mediterranean, the olive is a common appetizer dish in Portugal. The olives are also harvested for the purpose of being pressed into olive oil, which is widely used on breads, vegetables, and salads.
Approaching a stretch of little resort towns with striking cliff backdrops, I stopped off at one of the beaches along the route. Late September appeared to be the off-season for beach going, as there were few people around. Strong winds off the Atlantic were blowing across the beach, but otherwise, it was a bright, sunny day. However, after a few minutes of brisk winds, I decided it was too chilly for any extended time lounging about or even watching the waves come in.
My next scenic pit stop was near the Marina de Cascais. Sharing the same space, old stone walls of a 15th century fort decorate one side of the marina. Parts of the fort appear to have been renovated as well. A restaurant and high end hotel have taken up residence in and around the fort walls. Combined, the union of old and modern make a lovely, postcard perfect view.
Due to the rocky terrain along some of Portugal’s coast, there are quite a few interesting grottoes, caves, and blowholes. One of these exceptional natural wonders near Cascais is the Boca do Inferno, or Hell’s Mouth. What likely started out as a cave along the coastline cliff, was eventually shaped and eroded by the ocean waves. This natural molding created a rock archway, a surviving piece of the cave roof, and a circular pool that ebbs and flows with the waves. It is a free attraction, and definitely worth a look!
Nearing the border with Spain, I made one final stop in the town of Tavira. One thing I discovered, and continued to have re-affirmed during my trip, was that some of my shoes just do not fair well on the smooth stones of the cobbled streets. Strolling was fine, but I couldn’t move at any other speed, besides slow. I guess that was the town’s way of saying “slow down and enjoy life!”
Walking towards the center of town, I found a plethora of restaurants and cafes. After browsing a few of the sidewalk menus, I was flagged down by one of the hosts. He was speaking so quickly, I could not make out if he was speaking Portuguese or French. So I took a gamble, and asked for English with the few French words I did know. He switched languages so fast, I was shocked, impressed, and a bit embarrassed by my own limited linguistics. In his rapid fire English, he dispensed with all the pros of his restaurant and menu listings. He even offered a complimentary glass of port. But I couldn’t help but notice that no one was in (or sitting outside) his restaurant. All the other surrounding areas seemed busy enough. True or not, I took this as an indication that this was probably not the best place to eat.
Farther out from the town center, I found a lovely little restaurant that was neither too crowded, or deserted. The menu featured lots of locally farmed produce and fresh caught fish. Thinking of the olive trees I passed that morning, I ordered an appetizer platter of local olives. A few moments later, I was surreptitiously removing pits from the olives I already popped into my mouth, thinking they were pitted. Knife and fork in hand, I examined the next few olives. And after painstakingly removing the pits with my utensils, I resigned myself to the covert napkin-to-mouth removal. In addition to the plate of olives, there was an empty companion plate. I realized, after excavating my first olive pit, the empty plate was for the pits. No harm, no foul, and lots of delicious olives!
And, like I mentioned in my previous post (Sintra: Lunch and Dining Tips), the wait staff will leave you in peace. So, when you are ready, you have to ask for the check.