Continuing through the Santa Cruz neighborhood, I made my way towards the Seville Cathedral and Giralda Tower.
Seville Cathedral, also known as St Mary of the See, is a UNESCO heritage site and the largest Gothic Cathedral in the world. Like many of the cathedrals I have visited on the Iberian Penninsula, the Seville Cathedral was originally a mosque. Remnants of the old mosque, Almohad, can still be seen in the architecture of the cathedral. The Giralda minaret and Puerta del Perdon are examples of the original structure.
The Giralda Tower, a brick, minaret structure with intricate patterns, is accessible with your ticket to the Cathedral. A series of ramps lead to the top of the tower, with a spectacular view of the surrounding cathedral and Seville.
After the reconquest of Seville, a bell tower was added to the top of the mosque’s minaret. The embellishment was a way of announcing the building’s new purpose, as a Catholic cathedral. Then, in the 16th century, a bronze statue, representing Faith, was added to the top of the tower. The Faith statue holds a cross and a shield; the shield acts as a weather vane, blowing with the wind.
Puerta del Perdon, or Door of Forgiveness, is mentioned above as one of the original gates of the old mosque. The intricate details of the horseshoe-like arch echo the identity of the original structure, while the sculptures and bells signify its re-purposing.
Inside the Seville Cathedral, Christopher Columbus’s tomb is located by the Door of the Prince. Mirroring his life, Columbus’s remains traveled quite a bit. Columbus was initially buried in Spain, then his remains were sent to Hispaniola. After the French took control of Hispaniola, Columbus’s remains were moved to Cuba, and later, back to Spain. After a bit of controversy over the authenticity of the remains, DNA tests were performed. Experts were able to confirm that the remains are of Columbus. The tomb symbolically represents the four regions of Spain, with a pallbearer from each region. The two pallbearers in the front represent Castile and Leon, and the two at the rear are Aragon and Navarre. Castile’s robes are decorated with the three tower castle from the Castile Coat of Arms. Leon is garbed in a lion emblazoned robe, while holding a spear with a cross, piercing a pomegranate. The Spanish word for pomegranate is “granada,” and the spear symbolizes Leon’s conquest of Granada. Navarre’s Coat of Arms includes chains, which are used to symbolize Navarre’s pallbearer. And, lastly, Aragon’s robes are patterned with bats (though there is some argument as to whether or not they are actually winged dragons or swallows).
The Andalusian region that Seville resides in is also known for its flamenco origins. So, that evening, I attended a flamenco show not too far from my hotel. Flamenco is primarily characterized by song, dance, and guitar. Emotionally charged, the dancers use foot stomping, hand snaps and claps, and animated hand and arm gestures to express themselves. Surprisingly, I got a great seat, front and center. However, in the future, I think I will pick a seat a further back from the stage. One of flamenco’s trademarks is the rhythmic stomping. And being that close to the stage, I could see the dust swirling around. Every barrette or flower lost from a dancers’ hair became a potential projectile to the face! And when it comes to dance, I believe there is such a thing as “too close to the stage.” Flamenco is such a full bodied dance, I was just too close to see the full picture. I felt so zoomed in, I could only see the footwork, or the hand movements, or the facial expressions. Never more than one at a time. But I love flamenco, and I would happily go again.
