New Orleans: French Quarter

French Quarter

Welcome to New Orleans’s French Quarter; infamous for its ruckus parties, haunted buildings, and Creole and Cajun cuisine.

The French Quarter is a 7 x 13 block neighborhood, with the streets of Canal, Rampart, and Esplanade making up the defining boundaries of the Quarter. The fourth boundary side runs along the Mississippi River.

French Quarter

French Quarter

In 1706, the land along a particularly sharp bend in the Mississippi River was laid claim to by two French-Canadian brothers, Iberville and Bienville. But it was not until 1718, when Bienville returned to the land, charged with raising a settlement by the Regent of France, that a settlement began to take shape. The town was named La Nouvelle-Orleans, in honor of the Regent, Duke d’Orleans.

The French Quarter changed hands many times during its history, from French to Spanish, back to French, before being sold to the US in the Louisiana Purchase. An extra special celebration can be expected in 2018, when the French Quarter celebrates its tri-centennial.

In addition to the settlers of the Quarter, the Acadians also came down the Mississippi River; prompted to escape persecution in French Canada and displacement by British expansion, the Acadians are today known as “Cajuns.” Choosing to settle in areas outside of the new settlement, they relied on their skills as hunters and trappers. The name Cajun is believed to have come from a misunderstanding in the annunciation of “acadians,” consequently becoming “a cajun.”

The French Quarter suffered two major fires in 1788 and 1794. After the last one, in 1794, residences were required to have a fountain in their courtyards that would be filled with water at all times. The architectural style of the second fire’s reconstruction is what defines the area to this day; brick townhouses with balconies and galleries, decorative iron rails, and courtyards with fountains. It is a decidedly Spanish style, even though the neighborhood is referred to as the “French Quarter.”

French Quarter

French Quarter

For a more in-depth look at the history of New Orleans and the French Quarter, a museum on Royal Street, the Historic New Orleans Museum, offers a permanent exhibit of the city’s history, from founding to present-day. The museum is free, but docent guided tours are also offered for $5.

French Quarter

If you are looking for tours with supernatural or paranormal elements, you’ve come to the right city. New Orleans boasts that it is the most haunted city in the US (though, Savannah would disagree). Tour topics range from voodoo to vampires to history, with a side of ghost stories and haunted dwellings. A couple of restaurants in the Quarter even claim to have spirits wandering around.

French Quarter

St Louis Cathedral, the oldest running cathedral in the US, is also one of the most recognized landmarks in New Orleans. In front of the cathedral is a small park, Jackson Square, surrounded by tall wrought iron gates, with a statue of Andrew Jackson at the center. Part of the original settlement area, some of the oldest apartments of the Quarter still stand on either side of the square. While their initial use was for government offices, most are now primarily store fronts.

Cafe Du Monde

Cafe Du Monde, the famed place for beignets and chicory coffee, is easily within view of Jackson Square, riverside. While the cafe is 24/7, there are often lines, both for a table and at the pedestrian to-go window. Remember to bring cash for your beignets and coffee, credit cards are not accepted. (There is an atm nearby though.)

Bourbon St, a few blocks over from the cathedral, is the bar lined street with colorful characters everyone is always talking about. During busy times, like sporting events and parade season, the street can get pretty packed and the atmosphere a little aromatic. But during the “off-season,” you can take a more leisurely stroll down the French Quarter’s “sin city” street.

The French Market is located a few blocks up from Cafe Du Monde. The Market hosts an array of local handicrafts and local cuisine samplers. It is a fun place for souvenirs, but some of the items like the masquerade masks are mass produced.

French Quarter

French Quarter

French Quarter

On a nice day, the Riverwalk, a park along the riverside of the Quarter, is a nice place for a stroll. Jazz and folk musicians typically can be found in this area, playing known and original pieces. And if you time it right, you can watch one of the local riverboats set sail for an afternoon cruise.

Fun fact: Tennessee Williams, a former resident of the Quarter, wrote the celebrated Streetcar Named Desire, based off the trolleys that ran through the city.

New Orleans: The Garden District

New Orleans Garden District

In honor of Mardi Gras next week, I’ve decided to segue from my Spain trip, to talk about my recent trip to New Orleans’ Garden District!

Southwest of the French Quarter, I spent a Saturday morning walking around the Garden District. Cute, little boutique shops mixed with trendy coffee shops and dive bars dot the boundary streets along St Charles Ave and Magazine St.

Originally the Livaudais Plantation, the land was sold off and eventually broken out into blocks of generous lots for homes; the Garden District was born. Today, you can still see some of the grand sized lots, complete with lavish gardens and cast iron fences, as well as smaller lots with equally charming homes.

While strolling down the sidewalks, keep an eye out for uneven surfaces. Some of the walkways are missing bricks or chunks of cement; or have sections sticking up at 45 degree angles, pushed up from expanding tree roots determined to retake the block.

Some of the celebrities who have owned or currently own homes in the Garden District include Sandra Bullock, John Goodman, and Anne Rice.

Architectural styles within the Garden District range from Greek Revival to Victorian. Greek Revival is primarily characterized by square or rounded columns of Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian styles, attached porches, and trim around doors. A number of the styles you will see in the Garden District will fall under the larger category of Victorian, with the subset styles consisting of Italianate, Queen Anne, and Gothic Revival.

New Orleans Garden District

The Italianate style can be seen in homes with a flat roof, overhanging eaves, cornices, and ornate brackets underneath.

New Orleans Garden District

New Orleans Garden District

Queen Anne, unlike Italianate, has unusual roof shapes, bay windows, and partial or full porches on the first level.

New Orleans Garden District

 

New Orleans Garden District

Gothic Revival, on the other hand, is characterized by steep roofs, windows with pointed arches, and decorative trim under the roof edges.

New Orleans Garden District

If you look closely, some of the homes have sky-blue painted ceilings on their attached porches. The color is often referred to as “haint blue” and can be traced to Gullah legends of “haints,” or evil spirits. The Gullah believe that these spirits could not cross water; so, the sky blue color was painted on the frames of windows and doors to mimic water and deter haints from entering the home. However, in the Garden District, instead of blue framing, you will find the ceilings of the exterior porches are blue. During the time of the Yellow Fever outbreaks, the haint blue was believed to keep death away. People had no idea what was causing the illness, and some attributed it to evil spirits. We now know that mosquitoes were the cause of the outbreaks, and oddly enough, the paint would have helped deter the mosquitoes. However, it was what was in the paint, more so than the blue color itself, that kept away the yellow fever carrying mosquitoes. The lye in the paint was acting as a repellent.

New Orleans Garden District

Also within the Garden District is Lafayette Cemetery #1, on Washington Avenue, which is the oldest of the seven New Orleans operated cemeteries. Here, you will find a mixture of wall vaults along the entrance side of the cemetery, and eye-catching, above ground family tombs. The oldest of the tombs are believed to be two stone and brick tombs, side by side, along the main path. These two tombs are thought to be from the days when the Livaudais Plantation still existed.

Lafayette Cemetery #1

Lafayette Cemetery #1

Lafayette Cemetery #1

Not just for the dead, the Lafayette Cemetery #1 has also been used as a filming location for movies, like Double Jeopardy and Dracula 2000, as well as music videos. However, the cemetery closes at 3 pm, so don’t plan on wandering through the graves at night!

On the other side of Washington Avenue, Commander’s Palace sits with its brightly decorated teal awnings. You can’t miss it! While strolling through the Garden District, a local told me about the restaurant’s 25 cent margaritas, and now being across the street from it, I decided to stop by. I saunter in, jeans and t-shirt, and immediately notice everyone at the host station is dressed in smart, business attire. Looking around at the seated patrons confirmed my suspicion.. I was severely under-dressed. But the host staff was super nice, all smiles, even after I told them that I did not have a reservation. I mentioned the drink special I heard about, hoping there was a bar in the corner, where I would be less conspicuous. But, alas, the special was only for Monday through Friday (with purchase of an entree). And admittedly, I was filled with a sense of relief as I thanked the host for the information and made a hasty retreat. I probably could have gotten away with my dark wash jeans, but I would much rather enjoy my dining experience without obsessively wondering if anyone is staring at my pants. Next time I will have to remember to pack something more appropriate.

On the other side of the Garden District, and a handful of streets outside of its official boundaries, is a lunch cafe called Reconcile Cafe. Only open for lunch, they offer an array of quintessential New Orleans food (Yum!). But what I really like about this place is that it is a training cafe for local youth in the culinary arts, and the proceeds go back into the training program and support the community. No business attire required!

For venturing beyond the Garden District, a trolley line, running down St Charles avenue, connects the Garden District to the French Quarter, Central Business District, and Audubon Zoo. A fun and affordable way to get around the city, the trolley cars add to the historic appeal.