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The Golden Triangle, Thailand: Scorpion Temple and the House of Opium

October 15, 2018December 29, 2018 Elizabeth 0 Comment Thailand

The Golden Triangle encompasses the northern portion of Thailand and the land surrounding its borders with Laos and Myanmar. The name was a reference to the opium cultivation and trade that took place there. Tourism is the main focus of the area nowadays. The streets are dotted with souvenir shops and advertisements for scenic boat rides up the Mekong.

In particular, the town of Mae Sai is a popular checkpoint for crossing into Myanmar, especially for tour groups. For convenience, you can pay the fee for a Myanmar visa at the border. From there, you are free to do a day trip on the other side, or remain in Myanmar and continue your travels there. I opted to stay on the Thai side and explore the border town. After wandering through the street stalls, I made my way up the hill to Wat Pha That Doi Wao, also known as the scorpion temple.

From the street, the temple can be reached by ascending 200+ steps. At 10AM, the ambient temperature was 90 degrees fahrenheit with the humidity level of a sauna. So the prospective climb was especially daunting. Lucky for me — and anyone else unwilling to commit to the cardio-level climb — there is a lovely and quite scenic road that winds its way up the hill and around to the rear entrance of the temple. Unlike most of the temples I visited while in Thailand, this one was pleasantly devoid of crowds. I think I passed three other couples the entire time I was visiting. There is also a lovely panoramic view of the town and river bordering Mynamar.

The House of Opium Museum is a nice stop for those interested in learning more about the history of opium and poppy growing in the area. The museum is located inside an old wooden building in a town along the Mekong River, north of Chiang Rai. Inside, there are an array of opium related items on display — from a visual representation of the poppy seedling-to-opium lifecycle to decorative pipes used for smoking. One of the plaques details a legend of how the poppy came to be. Actually, two versions of the legend exist, one with a young maiden and one with an elderly woman. But in both versions, the poppy plant springs up from their grave.

On the upper level of the museum there is a section dedicated to the local hill tribes. In the tribe villages, women wear gold rings around their necks. Local legends say a princess was attacked by a tiger while outside the village. But since she had metal rings on her neck the tiger’s bite did not break through and she survived the attack. So the rings were adopted as a form of protection against wildlife attacks. Pre-teen girls and women of these hill tribes would have metal rings added in a stack along their necks.

Ayutthaya, Thailand: Summer Palace and Ruins

June 30, 2018June 30, 2018 Elizabeth 0 Comment Ayutthaya, Thailand

Bang Pa In Palace (summer palace) is within easy reach of Bangkok by car — less than an hour’s drive — and makes for a great day trip. If you don’t have a car, you can also take the train.

The palace was constructed in the mid-17th century along the Chao Phraya river. Its primary use was as a summer residence for the royal family. But after Burmese raids in 1767, the palace was abandoned. It wasn’t until the mid-19th century, under King Rama IV, that the palace was revitalized and once again used as a residence. A lot of the European-styled buildings and gardens on the palace grounds were added by the succeeding king, Rama V. Today, the palace is seldom used as a residence — summer or otherwise — by the current royal family.

A vibrant pavilion situated over an ornamental pond offers a nice place to sit in the shade and admire the palace and its manicured lawns. Referred to as the Divine Seat of Personal Freedom, the pavilion is decorated in the Thai-style (colorfully tiled multi-tiered roof, roof spires and finials). When I was there a vendor was selling rolls of bread to visitors who wished to feed the fish in the pond — and there are some BIG fish in that pond.

Also along the water’s edge is a colorful lookout tower known as the Sage’s Tower, or Ho Withun Thasana, which you can climb to the top. There are stairs leading to several viewing levels, but even climbing to the first level rewards you with nice vistas of the surrounding landscape.

Beyond that is a Chinese-styled residence building — which happens to be the only building within the inner complex of the palace open to visitors. The interior is predominantly adorned in red and ebony lacquered wood, with ornate pieces of furniture, tile, and porcelain on display.

Be sure to bring a hat, water and sunscreen. The palace complex is mainly an outdoor destination, and with the expansive grounds there is not a lot of shade.

* Remember, no bare shoulders or shorts/short skirts *

Ayutthaya is a bit further north of the summer palace. Quite a few tour packages offer day tours that encompass the Summer Palace and Ayutthaya, or if you prefer to self-tour you can also get here by car or train (though you will need to hire a bike or tuk-tuk to get to the sites from the train station). I stopped at the Wat Mahathat, Wat Yai Chaimongkhon, Wat Phutthaisawan and the Ayutthaya Historical park myself.

Ayutthaya was the capital of the Siamese empire, which expanded to cover most of present-day Thailand, between the mid-14th century through the late 18th-century. During this time, the kingdom enjoyed thriving trade with other nations including the Dutch and Portuguese. The capital eventually fell when it was attacked by the Burmese. After that, the capital was moved to Bangkok. A large amount of the building bricks from Ayutthaya were re-purposed in the construction of the capital in Bangkok. Consequently, there is not much left to the old city of Ayutthaya.

The remaining structures are considered to be in the “Thai” style with the bell-shaped chedi.

There are also signs warning visitors of pick-pockets in the area, so take care with your valuables.

Bangkok, Thailand: Wats and Grand Palace

May 15, 2018May 15, 2018 Elizabeth 0 Comment Bangkok, Thailand, Travel

Wat Pho, Wat Phra Kaew, and the Grand Palace are some of the most visited locations in Bangkok. So it is worth getting to the Wats early – if not to beat the crowds, at least to beat the heat!

Wat Pho, also known as the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, is located near the Chao Phraya River and the Grand Palace. In addition to being a temple, Wat Pho housed the first public university in Thailand, established during the reign of King Rama III. The university used pictorial inscriptions in stone installed around the temple complex to cover a range of subjects. The temple was also home to a medical training center. Today, traditional Thai medicine and massage are still practiced on site.

Before you enter the individual chapels, you will need to remove your shoes. There are mini cubby holes near the chapel entrances for storing footwear. But the back and forth traffic of people dropping off and/or picking up shoes makes the entrances a little difficult to maneuver.

The Reclining Buddha, one of the main allures of Wat Pho, spans 46 meters in length and is covered in gold leaf. If you are attempting to get the entire Buddha in a picture – as I also attempted and failed – it will seem near impossible. The hall is lined with 108 bronze bowls, representing the 108 actions or characters of Buddha. Visitors can purchase a bowl of coins and, starting from one end of the hall, drop a coin in each of the Buddha’s bowls to bring themselves good luck. Even if you don’t get 108 coins to disperse among the bowls, you can still wander the hall admiring the Reclining Buddha and listening to the clink-clink-clink of accumulating good fortune.

And don’t forget to look up when you are outside! The roofs of the temple buildings are spectacularly colorful, with intricate patterns and spires reaching skyward.

The admission fee is currently 100 Baht for foreign visitors, but will be increased to 200 Baht in 2019.

Wat Phra Kaew, also known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, is located on the grounds of the Grand Palace. The primary attraction of this wat is the Emerald Buddha, which sits high up on stacked platforms. The Buddha might be smaller than you are expecting – probably because it is displayed so high up – but no less awe-inspiring. Dressed in a cloak denoting the season, the Emerald Buddha’s changing robes ceremony is only performed by Thailand’s King.

The temple buildings and surrounding grounds are adorned with colorful tiles and elaborate statues and murals. Wat Phra Kaew is a great example of the various architectural styles. As the wat was renovated and expanded, the style of the day was incorporated into its design. So now you can admire styles from the late 1700s – onward, all in one place.

And around the corner, sharing the same grounds, is the Grand Palace. While it was used as a royal residence up until 1925, its primary function now is for official events and ceremonies. If you time your visit right, you can catch a Changing of the Guard procession in front of the Chakri Maha Prasat Throne Hall.

And don’t forget to wear something that covers your shoulders and knees! (See #5 of Essentials for the City and Beyond.) Otherwise you’ll have to rent appropriate clothing to visit the sites.

Bangkok, Thailand: Essentials for the City and Beyond

January 30, 2018April 6, 2018 Elizabeth 0 Comment Bangkok, Thailand, Travel

Bangkok has so much to see and do, it is difficult to know where to start. So, let’s kick it off with essentials.

First and foremost, Bangkok (and Thailand in general) can be stiflingly hot year round. Except in rainy season, when the temperatures are a little cooler. However, the torrential rainstorms of rainy season offset the benefit of the cooler temperature as streets become streams. Therefore, like most tourists, I opted for the non-rainy season and focused on dressing weather/culture appropriate and staying hydrated.

Despite the heat, the Thai people dress modestly. So you may want to leave those tank tops and short shorts at home. I was there in March, and the average high for the week was in the 90s (Fahrenheit). And it was around 87 on my first day in Bangkok. Riding into the city center from the airport, I was surprised to see how people on the street were dressed. I would have thought it was closer to 60 — lots of zipped up jackets, long sleeves, and pants.

Exploring the city on foot can be a little confusing as most of the street signs are not in English. So my navigation took the form of landmarks — the McDonalds across from a gas station and a convenience mart with the window full of arm waving lucky cats. And while I did not find the streets anywhere near as difficult to cross as they were in China, you will still want to keep an eye out for motorbikes. They yield to oncoming traffic, but do not necessarily remain stopped at red lights.

However, if you are near a BTS train station, getting around is very easy and affordable. Day passes are around $4 (USD). The stations and trains are well lit and very clean. With my pass, I was able to get from my hotel near the Victory Monument station to Bangkok’s riverside area (Saphan Taksin). A complimentary river ferry will take you from the station to the shops and restaurants along the river. At night, the ride along the river is very scenic. Hotels, restaurants and bars along the river’s edge are festively lit. The area really comes alive in the evening, with an extensive night market attracting shoppers as well as diners and bar hoppers.

Compared to goods and services in the US, Thailand is pretty inexpensive. Prices vary depending on how upscale and where you go, but I didn’t spend more than $8 – $10 for dinner most nights. That would include a beverage, soup, entree, and dessert. If you are interested in a more authentic “foodie” experience than restaurant dining, Bangkok has a plethora of street food stalls dishing out food ranging from traditional Thai food to durian smoothies.

Last, but not least, I will dispense a few tips I picked up while in Thailand.

1) Do not touch other people on the head. In Thailand, the head is the most spiritual part of the body, and it is considered extremely rude to touch someone there. I’ve never been one to pat small children on the head, so that was not an issue for me. But if you do, suppress the urge. It’s a big no-no in Thailand.

2) The Thai Greeting – hands pressed together brought up to chest height and head inclined forward, touching nose to fingertips. Most commonly seen in welcomes and thank yous, it is a sign of respect. It will become so ingrained in your interactions with people that by the time you leave Thailand, you’ll still be hand-to-nose bowing to people at home. I miss it just thinking about it!

3) Do not speak ill of the Thai royal family. It is against the law, and you could end up in jail or with a fine.

4) Remove shoes when entering someone’s house or a temple. It’s a sign of respect.

5) Pack a light weight jacket or shawl. If you visit a temple, or wat, you will be required to have your shoulders and legs covered. I wore a lot of maxi dresses with 3/4 length light jackets.