Category: Big Bend National Park

Big Bend National Park is pretty far from any major cities and still a good distance from any large towns. But considering that national parks are established for the purpose of diving in to nature, this is what you want. Therefore, when it comes to lodgings, you have a limited selection to choose from.

Big Bend National Park does have a hotel, as well as RV camping and traditional camping, but they tend to book up fast. I had hoped to get a hotel room at one of the onsite lodgings, but they were booked solid four months before I had even considered my trip. So, if you have your heart set on staying within the park, or any popular U.S. national park, plan ahead, book early!

But that is not to say that I was out of luck. On the contrary, it led me to the charming small town of Terlingua, a ghost town 30 minutes outside of Big Bend.

The term “ghost town” refers to a town/village/settlement that has been abandoned, but the building structures still remain. In the case of Terlingua, it used to be a mining town, mercury specifically. And as the demand for mercury declined, so did the population of Terlingua.

Today, the town limits of Terlingua still hold some of the original buildings, like the schoolhouse, a re-purposed cinema theater, and an old cemetery.

Outside the official limits of the ghost town, a small art community has taken root – predominately metallurgy and artists’ galleries. Don’t expect to see any chain restaurants out here. The cafes and mini markets are locally owned and operated. No neon lights or waving inflatables — you’re more likely to see hand painted business signs, natural landscaping, and modest structures, adding to the authentic charm of this southwestern town.

The last night of my stay in Terlingua, monsoon rains let loose. It was incredible to watch the arid landscape turn into overflowing streams and rivers. And the rains did an amazing job of power washing my car, removing even the baked on bug splats on my bumper and license plate. Less than an hour later, you would not have known it had rained — everything was dry again. It wasn’t until late that evening, when it was pitch black outside, that I realized all that rain most likely displaced a lot of critters. And I confess, I did not come to this conclusion on my own. You see, there was a small window in my bathroom that looked out at the supports of the tin roof outside. And perched on one of the wooden beams was a pancake-sized tarantula.

No cause for panic you say; it is outside and you are inside…

Well, the cracks and gaps in the doorframe I previously thought were quaint, were now the source of intense dread. I ended up jamming a bath towel into the gap under the door. My hope was that if the mammoth spider found its way to my door, it would be thwarted by the blockade and find another room to visit.

Of course, that did not stop me from having dreams of spiders dancing over my face that night.

The Big Bend National Park, located along the Texas-Mexico border, encompasses the beauty of rivers, deserts, and mountains all in one location. And the drive to the park is pretty spectacular as well — a two lane highway winding around imposing mesas, climbing and falling with the terrain’s elevation.

If you are driving yourself to Big Bend, keep in mind that gas stations in western Texas may be few and far between. And this is especially true once you’ve turned off I-10 and are traveling down US-385. The thought of running out of gas and being stranded on the roadside with limited cell service was enough motivation for me to stop for gas any time the gauge was below half a tank.

Once inside Big Bend, and probably even before you get to the entrance gates, you’ll start to see some of the famed local wildlife. And I don’t mean the large predators. Think smaller. Not only do the road runners cross the road, but also the scorpions and tarantulas! Black bears, rattlesnakes, and mountain lions also roam the park, but I did not see any during my trip. And to be honest, I was very thankful for that. It’s one thing to see a predator from the relative safety of your car. But it is something else entirely to stumble upon, or more likely, be stumbled upon by a lion or bear while hiking. However, the park rangers at the visitor centers have plenty of information and guidance for wildlife encounters, to keep you safe.

If you visit during the summer months, be sure to pack plenty of water. Even in the fall, the desert plains get pretty warm. I made a trip to Big Bend in October, and the temperatures in the park differed dramatically depending on your elevation. Along the river, it was around 90 degrees (fahrenheit), but up in the mountains the temperature dropped by almost 20 degrees. There are plenty of hiking trails throughout the expansive park, as well as scenic lookout points for those who do not wish to trek too far into nature. And, with easy access to the Rio Grande, there is also the option to take in the scenic landscape by water, paddling through the canyons.

While I was stopped at one of the scenic views overlooking the Rio Grande, I noticed a wooden canoe resting along the opposite bank of the river. Looking around the open area I was standing in, I then noticed a small space on the ground dedicated to a variety of palm sized metal sculptures of animals. Only then did it occur to me that perhaps the canoe across the river and the entrepreneurial souvenir stop were connected. And sure enough, when I wandered back to the edge of the cliff to watch the river currents, it was clear that I had been spotted by the owner of the canoe. A distant figure hopped into his canoe and paddled the length to the other bank. Must be an exhausting commute, paddling back and forth all day long.